Tuesday, November 25, 2014

11 25 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
8.5ft @ 10s from 349° (NNW)
6.3ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
3.1ft @ 9s from 284° (WNW)
2.2ft @ 13s from 282° (WNW)
1.1ft @ 4s from 316° (NW)     
0.6ft @ 16s from 234° (WSW)

As predicted yesterday morning was pretty epic until the wind turned onshore.That happened at 11am and it's always fascinating (unless you didn't know it was going to happen and were in the water or even worse just paddling out!) to watch the conditions go from heavenly to junk in 10 minutes.
The influence of the local wind on the waves is huge.
That's how The point looked before the front arrived.

On tap today we have two completely different swells:
8.5ft @ 10s from 349° (NNW)
6.3ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)

The 13s one was the one we surfed yesterday. It was generated by that big fetch just south of the Aleutians that I indicated in the past days. That is a good swell, a little inconsistent, but very clean.

The 10s one has been (and still is) generated by the much closer fetch of N winds that follow the front that arrived yesterday. You can see it in the wind map below just north of the islands.
That low is going to intensify and provide us with short to moderate period waves from N-NE for pretty much the whole week.

Not a huge fan of closely generated swells (not as clean as the ones that travel longer and way less lulls to paddle back out), but that is still much better than flat!

A look at the wind. Below is the maui county 2k map for 3pm today.
The wind will be from a direction around 40 degrees that DOES NOT get amplified at all by the Haleakala on the north shore. It does get amplified in other parts of the islands though if you're really desperate to go windsurfing...


Honolua bay contest, here's my call at 6am without having seen the ocean or anything.
There will be waves breaking. But it's going to be pretty ugly, disorganized and even sideshore windy. I don't know how many days they need to run a ladies contest, but the rest of the waiting period does not look good at all. So I'm gonna guess that they are going to send them out, also considering that round 1 is a non elimination one. I hope I'm right, so I'll be able to watch them in the background at the shop during my morning shift while helping rental customers.
No, it was not a case that I posted the 3pm wind map... :)

Have fun in the sun everyone!

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