Saturday, May 28, 2016

5 28 16 morning call

First Lahaina session yesterday was fun. This guy got some board pop out of his pumping action.

Still shoulder high sets.

Second session at Thousand Peaks on the SUP was even more fun.

4am significan buoy readings
2.1ft @ 10s from 358° (N)

4.1ft @ 8s from 79° (ENE)

2ft @ 15s from 215° (SW)

2.4ft @ 14s from 197° (SSW)

2f 10s from N at Waimea would make for small waves on the north shore, but Pauwela seems to only feel the windswell (which won't do much instead at that size and direction). Maybe the northerly energy will show up later, you guys should check the buoys/webcam later in the day to verify that, otherwise I'll call for a pretty flat day at Hookipa, at least to start with.

Lanai and Barbers still reading a couple of feet of southerly energy. The south swell have slow starts but also slow ends, so we'll see that energy for a few more days.
The South Pacific map of 7 days ago (21st) looks pretty good with a part of the fetch west and a part east of New Zealand. You can understand how much better it would be if New Zealand wasn't there, but it is. It would be better also if Kahoolawe wasn't there, but it is.

The reason I'm now posting the maps of 7 days earlier is to give you guys (and me!) an idea of what the fetch generating an eventual south swell looked like. BUT, it doesn't mean that what we're surfing is always coming from that exact moment in time. We know that waves travel at a speed that depends on the period. We also know that waves change their period when they travel. So knowing exactly what day and time a particular wave was generated is impossible.

Also because a wave is not generated in only one moment, of course. If a fetch stays in a favorable position (oriented towards Hawaii) for a few days, the waves that were generated at the back of the fetch will keep building their height as they travel through the fetch.
In other words, those maps are just a ROUGH indication of how the fetch looked like.
Much more important is what the buoys read and I can live with 2f 15s, so this morning I'm going again Lahaina side (and I work in the afternoon again). Expect reports later in the day.

The wind should be pretty light island wide. This is the noon map.

North Pacific totally dead other than a weak windswell fetch.

South Pacific not offering much either. Those two fetches are not well oriented/situated.

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