Thursday, May 11, 2017

Thursday 5 11 17 morning call

Double south session for me yesterday and the Accept-Embrace-Enjoy mantra is working well.

The spot we surfed was waist high in the sets, how did Jason Hall managed to get a shot like this, is a bit of a mystery... His custom Gopro tail mount holds the camera a foot over the tail, so that must help.

It's always a pleasure to meet up with Josh Weisfeld of Jaw Retro Surfboards. He showed me his last creation: a Malibu Pig with the wide point way back and inverted rocker (more in the tail than in the nose). Looks different that's for sure.

As predicted, the conditions for the windsurfers at Hookipa in the afternoon were pretty good. Pictured in this photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery is Shawna, who told me:"I wasn't expecting the waves to be this good today!".
"Had you checked the Mauisurfreport, you would have known baby. I totally called it!". That did not give me any bonus points. Probably gave me some negative ones, actually.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
1.9ft @ 13s from 189° (S)

How ironic that the only buoy that has a southerly reading is the NW101! Surfline calls for 1.6f 12s at 8am and, without the local buoys, you definitely want to check the webcams before going. FYI: Late morning yesterday, thousand peaks had waist to occasional chest/shoulder high sets on the incoming tide and half an hour of glass between winds from all kind of directions. But today the size was forecasted to decrease. Avoid the 9.20am low tide, that's gonna kill the already small waves.

North shore
4.2ft @ 11s from 333° (NNW)

3ft @ 11s from 334° (NNW)

3.5ft @ 11s from 334° (NNW)

Still fun sizes at the buoys, but all gradually coming down throughout the day. Unfortunately the Hookipa sensor is already reading 10(6-13) from 77 at 6.40am, so the morning surf won't be particularly clean. I'm taking it easy, eventually I'll go have a look and post a beach report.

Windsurfers/kiters warning: this is going to be the last day with decent waves (non-windswell) until  Thursday May 18, when Surfline predicts a new NW swell at around 4f 12s.
The wind should be plenty and pretty easterly, as the two HRW visualizations below show at 2pm.

Current wind map (on the left) shows:
1) a weak westerly fetch off Japan
2) a tiny section of a NW fetch up in the corner
3) the windswell fetch.
Unfortunately, another bad day of wave generation for Hawaii (nothing from the south either). That means we got some flatness ahead. Next liver flush accordingly scheduled for Monday.
On the right of the picture, how my friend's automated map judges those fetches. Not sure what the scale on the bottom is, I must ask him. Probably the height of the seas in feet.

Lastly, that's how the sky looks like from above.

Lastly, my favorite human on the planet Dr. Greger went big time mainstream in this 18 minutes video, but the message is clear and worth sharing.


Robin said...

Hi G.P.

You've been writing quite a bit about Dr. Greger. Loving it! It has helped me to make some more healthy food choices. Just out of interest: How would your typical day of food/eating look like? Would really love it if you have some time for this.

Mahalo from the Netherlands,


cammar said...

Hi Robin,

I could just say, 95% unprocessed whole plants.
But I'm going to be more detailed and mention that my breakfast is made by oatmeal with fresh fruits (usually pineapple, papaya, apple and banana + whatever is in season... like mangoes now!), organic frozen berries and greens (strawberry, blueberry, kale, spinach, corn and peas), three teaspoons of ground mixed seeds (flax, chia and sesame) and the juice of half a lemon. I add mixed nuts on and off (I don't always buy them, otherwise I eat too many of them!).
I like it so much, that I eat it also at lunch.

At dinner, it's vegetables and legumes of all sorts (steamed, raw, roasted, but not cooked with any oil).
The reason I say 95%, is because I still don't seem to be able to completely eliminate coffee, bread (even if sugar free and from whole sprouted grains like the Ezekiel brand I buy, like anything that's processed, bread is still bad from you) and a little bit of raw olive oil from my diet. But that's ok. It can't be a struggle otherwise it doesn't work.

That is far from an ideal diet (biggest meal should be at lunch, but I can't do that, since often I want to get in the water right after lunch), and eating the same stuff at breakfast and lunch every day, despite how much stuff there is in it, is pretty bad from the variety point of view.
That is only what seems to be working ok for me and my lifestyle. We're all different.