Sunday, June 10, 2018

Sunday 6 10 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday. The contest at Mala was cancelled, but Jimmie Hepp was there to shoot and posted some photos in this gallery. On his way back, I told him to check out Maalaea that was breaking, although only in the shoulder high range. Here's a couple.

Photographer Dave Baker was in the water and here's a great shot of Mikah Nickens with the windmills in the background.

Maalaea is a fickle spot, even though claims like "it didn't break for the last 6 years" crack me up, as I surfed it multiple times in that time frame. They obviously mean that it didn't break double overhead in the last 6 years. The reason behind its scarcity (which makes it precious) is that it requires a direction between 165 and 185, best at 175 (see map below).
Lahaina has a much wider angle, catching swells between 185 and 230. All Maui's shadow lines are highlighted in the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
4.7ft @ 16s from 156° (SSE)

3.5ft @ 15s from 164° (SSE)

4.4ft @ 15s from 155° (SSE)

4.8ft @ 15s from 179° (S)

South swell coming down in period ever so slightly, it should be another great day of surfing on the south shore.

North shore
6.4ft @ 8s from 77° (ENE)

No more northerly energy at Pauwela, but 6.4f 8s of windswell will keep the flatness away. More small NW energy coming up next week, I think Hookipa has been the sneaky under the radar star of this June start. That is if you don't mind choppy waves.

Wind map at noon.

A pretty active North Pacific shows:
- a small WNW fetch
- a small NNE fetch
- the windswell fetch.
North shore not going flat anytime soon.

South Pacific shows a really nice fetch with winds between 170 and 180 degrees. The Big Island blocks anything coming from more east of 160, so we should be good on that one. As highlighted above, the direction of this swell will be ideal for Maalaea, but the winds need to be a lot stronger than that to... "make it break again after six years".

Morning sky.

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