Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Wednesday 6 20 18 morning call

A longboard session for me yesterday. No photos of the day, here's an interesting angle by Jason Hall.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

1.8ft @ 12s from 165° (SSE)

2ft @ 12s from 167° (SSE)

2ft @ 11s from 170° (S)

1.8ft @ 13s from 185° (S)

The readings at the buoys are better than what Surfline predicts, and we'll take that. I'm gonna guess knee to waist high. There actually was a small fetch on June 12 and 13 (map below) and that is the source of this energy, IMO. Directions at the outer buoys are for once consistent and reliable (seen the absence of strong easterly windswell in the ocean), while Barbers has the tendency to straighten everything up to the south. One aspect of the importance of knowing the position of the source of a swell is that you don't have to rely on the often unreliable directions of the buoy readings.

North shore
3.7ft @ 9s from 53° (ENE)
I wanted to play "where was the fetch" game also for that small 9s energy at Pauwela and I retrieved this map of June 16 where I circled what I think the source of it was. Don't forget that I sample the wind maps only once a day, so we don't have an history of what happened in between samples. Anyway, that should keep the flatness at bay, I will confirm that in a beach report from Hookipa around 6am.

Wind map at noon.

Not much going on in the North Pacific, which has two tiny fetches. I don't think we'll get anything out of the west one (remote and blocked), we might have a bit more chances to get a bit of angular spreading out of the not so well oriented, small and weak (but close enough) NW one. Allright, it was nice to have overhead waves on the north shore in the middle of June, now back to normal.

South Pacific has a closer fetch east of New Zealand and a much more remote one way down close to Antartica. I had to slide the whole map down to catch it, Hawaii is where the red X is. Next week should be ok on the south shore.

Morning sky.

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