Monday, August 28, 2006

The Molokai challenge

It's been a while... been busy. Lots of surfing lately. Good summer. Not too big, but quite a few fun sessions on the south shore.
Tonight's post, though, is about the Maui Molokai challenge that took place a month ago.
I wrote an article about it and the Windsurfing magazine published it online. Enjoy it:

Monday, August 21, 2006

the present

Just received this good story by a friend in Italy. I liked it so much, that I decided to post it. Let me know if you liked it.

"Two men, both seriously ill, occupied the same hospital room. One man was allowed to sit up in his bed for an hour each afternoon to help drain the fluid from his lungs. His bed was next to the room's only window.
The other man had to spend all his time flat on his back.
The men talked for hours on end. They spoke of their wives
and families, their homes, their jobs, their involvement in the military service, where they had been on vacation.
Every afternoon when the man in the bed by the window could sit up, he would pass the time by describing to his roommate all the things he could see outside the window.
The man in the other bed began to live for those one hour periods where his world would be broadened and enlivened by all the activity and color of the world outside. The window overlooked a park with a lovely lake. Ducks and swans played
on the water while children sailed their model boats. Young lovers walked arm in arm amidst flowers of every color and a fine view of the city skyline could be seen in the distance.
As the man by the window described all this in exquisite detail, the man on the other side of the room would close his eyes and imagine the picturesque scene. One warm afternoon the man by the window described a parade passing by. Although the other man couldn't hear the band - he could see it. In his mind's eye as the gentleman by the window portrayed it with descriptive words. Days and weeks passed.
One morning, the day nurse arrived to bring water for their baths only to find the lifeless body of the man by the window, who had died peacefully in his sleep. She was saddened and called the hospital attendants to take the body away.
As soon as it seemed appropriate, the other man asked if he could be moved next to the window. The nurse was happy to make the switch, and after making sure he was comfortable, she left him alone. Slowly, painfully, he propped himself up on one elbow to take his first look at the real world outside.
He strained to slowly turn to look out the window beside the bed. It faced a blank wall.
The man asked the nurse what could have compelled his deceased roommate who had described such wonderful things outside this window The nurse responded that the man was blind and could not even see the wall. She said, "Perhaps he just wanted to
encourage you."
There is tremendous happiness in making others happy, despite our own situations. Shared grief is half the sorrow, but happiness when shared, is doubled. If you want to feel rich, just count all the things you have that money can't buy.
"Today is a gift, that's why it is called the present."

Sunday, August 20, 2006

the surfing mantis

Once again, here's how wrong settings can give birth to an original shot.
I look like a praying mantis with some huge hair on the back... The ghost standupper on the background is quite interesting too...

Overall a photo that shows that dinamic surf action can happen also in knee high surf.
Here's another original (I mean that I didn't read or hear it, but it's my own) thought: ripping on small waves is harder than ripping on big waves. You just don't have any buffer for mistakes. You shift your weight a few inches off the right spot on a small wave, you lose it. A bigger wave will forgive a lot more. That's why I'm always amazed by those guys (most of them over 50) that do nose rideing and all kind of tricks on one foot waves at Launio. BIG respect!

PS. I have an old school 9.10 lined up to buy in September... I can't wait!

Wednesday, August 16, 2006

fat and short...

I had a couple of sessions with one of Sean Ordonez' new production wave boards. It's a 92 liters, but it turns like a shortboard. Which it actually is, since it's only 240cm...
At the shop they also have a demo 99 liters. I can't wait to try it in a day with very light wind and some waves...
Check out his other boards at:
Good job Sean, I really enjoyed sailing it.

Saturday, August 12, 2006

little forecast

Hi there, long time no blog!
I've been busy doing... don't exactly remember what. Lately, there have been no good surfing/sailing conditions to take photos and tell stories of.
Wait, let me clarify this. Spoiled as I am after 5 years in Maui, 20-25 knots of wind in a beautiful blu (but flat) ocean under the warm sun of Hawaii are not really good conditions. Waves is what really turns me on. And, in fact, here is the forecasted (output of a computer simulation) weather map of the south pacific ocean for Tuesday august 15th.

It's a nice fetch east of New Zealand of strong winds aimed towards Hawaii and that means that (if the computer was right) seven days after that, Tuesday august 22nd the waves will be big on the south shore.
Actually there will be waves starting Sunday the 20th, but those ones will come from a storm in the Tasman sea and you never know what is really going to get here thru all those French Polinesia islands... so have low expectations about that one.
Hopefully, I'll ride my favorite wave again.

See ya in da woda.

Wednesday, August 02, 2006

me on my favorite wave

Last two sunset sessions have been pretty damn good.
Here's a photo from yesterday. The more I look at it, the more I like it. Mostly, because it's me. And, on top of that, I can't really find something particularly wrong with what I'm doing.
I'm quite low (but not too low), I'm in the right place, I'm looking at the spot where to do the bottom turn, I'm checking a brasilian ass with my peripheral vision... (you can't really tell this from the photo, but I remember it quite well...).
And look at the spray off the lip of the wave, look at the color of the ocean, look at the sunlight reflected on my blonde hair... ;-)

Sharon, once again, thanks a lot for taking what I think is the best surfing photo I have of myself. It's a great shot. I'll order a printout at Costo... if they still let me in!

Anyway, I want to spend a few words about another wave I caught yesterday.
It was the biggest of my two hours session and I was sitting so far outside that I ended up being in a position that I could actually try it. I paddled like if there was no tomorrow and I caught it. I think it was close to double overhead, that's how it felt at least. I stood up and I raised my arms and started screaming (litterally) down the face of the rolling mountain. The surfers on the inside looked so small from up there!
I felt like Bruce Irons in the shore break at Waimea when he won the Eddie Aikau...
Unfortunately, the two photographers didn't catch it. But this morning, when I walked in the Hot Sails shop, first think Glenn says:"Giampaolo, I heard about your sick wave yesterday!"'s a small island.

Today there's not a single cloud, the trade winds are back, there's still waves on the south shore (and more are about to arrive) and you have no idea of the color of the ocean.
And I got a fine photo to post on my blog.

Damn, what a good life!