There's two things that makes me not prefere it. The second one clearly is not her fault.
1) when it's good is always crowded.
2) when it's good (and crowded) I'm not confident enough to sit in the middle of the pack (that means in the right spot) taking off on those steep walls on my back hand. I'm an poor backside surfer (because I don't practice enough going right).
But today I surfed it and the place is truly beautiful.
Gas bill was 13 bucks.
BTW, I didn't catch any of those beautiful waves you see below. The reasons, I just explained.
|one guy is gonna get barreled, another one is flying over the lip|
PS. Those photos are from sets that I saw before and after my session.
When I was in the water, in two hours there was only one set like that. And I was in the wrong spot.
PPS. This is Browsinho at Jaws today... Holy crap!