Wednesday, November 13, 2019

Wednesday 11 13 19 morning call

It was a Kai Penny kind of day.


The first surfer that I didn't recognize while filming at Hookipa was little brother Ridge! Btw, the sick turn I posted yesterday was by Ian Walsh (thanks Alex).


If you followed the Kai Penny videos from the beginning (all grouped under the kai penny videos label), you should remember that the nickname was given by my Argentinian friends to one of them. I'll keep him anonymous (and crop his face off), but yesterday he got a smoking wave. I wouldn't expect nothing less from The Original!


The windsurfers are still in town and are desperate for wind, so they all jumped on the unexpected opportunity yesterday afternoon. My pick of Jimmie Hepp's album.


4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
2.2ft @ 13s from 195° (SSW)                         
0.3ft @ 20s from 199° (SSW)

Lanai
2.2ft @ 12s from 171° (S)                        
0.3ft @ 20s from 200° (SSW)
 
Off season south swell now down to a couple of feet 12-13s. Notice the 0.3ft 20s SSW reading both buoys register. Went to look for the fetch in the collage of the maps of Nov 6 to 9 below, but couldn't find anything significant on the 6th, so I wouldn't be too excited about it.


The Lahaina webcam shows mostly flat, but with some quality small waves once in a while. Check it out yourself if interested.


North shore
Waimea
2.7ft @ 8s from 346° (NNW)
1.3ft @ 13s from 286° (WNW)

Pauwela
4.3ft @ 9s from 25° (NNE)

NW swell went down a low and all we have left now is 4.3ft 9s energy from the NNE. Still enough to make some fun size waves at Hookipa, I might not be able to report as I have a early morning board meeting.

Wind map at noon.


Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
3:10a  +2.6   2:04p  +1.7   9:20a  +0.9   8:32p  -0.3    6:36a   5:47p

North Pacific has the same two fetches we saw yesterday:
1) the WNW one is intensifying and moving closer to us (Sunday swell)
2) the NW one associated with the very deep low that reached 946mb yesterday (Friday swell).
Check the direction on the map on the right and see how perfect the position of fetch n.2 is for Honolua Bay. It also makes my thing that the first swell is going to be bigger in Maui, as the second one will be partially blocked by the upstream islands.


South Pacific's most relevant fetch is the one in the Tasman Sea.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, November 12, 2019

6.45am hookipa is head high plus and clean.
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Tuesday 11 12 19 morning call

 
The wonderful windless conditions blessed us also yesterday morning. My ribs are flaring up a bit, I'm back at using my custom tank top with inside foam cushion.

A friend of mine once told me his theory that the oxygen released by the white water of a broken wave is more pure and ionized. No idea if that's true (and don't care), all I know is that it's wonderful to be surrounded by a sea of fizzling white bubbles after a wipeout. As long as I didn't get hurt (or snapped the board), one of my favorite parts of surfing.

Ridge Lenny has been ripping The Point with his padded KT lately.

Paige Alms not missing many session either.


Cruising at Middles.

Drop wallet, lay back, whatever you call it, this was the turn of the day and I don't even know who the guy is. PS. Ian Walsh, as identified by blog reader Alex.

Kain Daly digging a crevasse mid face.

I'm assuming most people know about the Kanaha high bacteria advisory, here's the  link to check the updates.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
3.6ft @ 13s from 205° (SSW)

Lanai
2.6ft @ 13s from 194° (SSW)

Smaller sizes and period at the local buoys, the off season south swell starts to show signs of decline. Good swells on both sides are a bit a waste for me, I didn't surf this one at all. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested. Looks a bit smaller and less consistent, but still get waves.


North shore
NW101
4.2ft @ 10s from 330° (NW)

Waimea
4.2ft @ 12s from 324° (NW)
2.9ft @ 9s from 340° (NNW)

Pauwela
3.6ft @ 13s from 323° (NW)
3.4ft @ 9s from 3° (N)
3.4ft @ 10s from 337° (NNW)
 
All buoys coming down in size and period, today should be smaller than the past few days and with a declining trend, but still starting off at head high plus.

Wind map at noon.


Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
2:35a  +2.5   1:41p  +1.8   8:40a  +0.8   8:05p  -0.2    6:36a   5:47p    

North Pacific has a small NW fetch off the Kurils and a much bigger/stronger one associated with bombing low (when a low pressure system's central pressure falls 24 millibars in 24 hours or less) of 948mb. That is giving life to a large swell that Surfline predicts to peak at 8.6ft 16s from 340 (epic Honolua) on Friday morning. Seems a bit conservative to me, but it all will depend on the evolution of the fetch.
A second large swell (more west because coming from the first fetch) is predicted for Sunday at 9ft 16s from around 310.

South shore has a fetch in the Tasman Sea and a small/weak S one.

Morning sky.

Monday, November 11, 2019

6.30am hookipa is head to head and a half and clean.
Feels like the swell is winding down and the reinforcement is not quite hitting yet.
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Monday 11 11 19 morning call

Another day of excellent waves on both north and south shore. Here's my opener.


Later in the day, the trades picked up enough for the good sailors to tackle the waves with some really clean conditions. My pick of Jimmie Hepp's album.


At the same time, the south swell was pumping even on the Makena side. Photo by James Flynn.



4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
4.2ft @ 15s from 194° (SSW)

Lanai
3.1ft @ 14s from 192° (SSW)

Pretty solid numbers at the buoy, it should be another day of pumping waves on the south shore.
Here's another ominous looking wall of water, but check the Lahaina webcam yourself if interested.


North shore
NW101
7.4ft @ 11s from 325° (NW)
2.8ft @ 10s from 334° (NNW)
 
NW001
5.6ft @ 13s from 295° (WNW)
4.4ft @ 10s from 329° (NW)

Waimea
5.1ft @ 11s from 330° (NW)
2.7ft @ 15s from 308° (WNW)

Pauwela
3.7ft @ 9s from 359° (N)
3.6ft @ 11s from 339° (NNW)
2.1ft @ 15s from 333° (NNW)
 
The NW buoys readings are a bit confusing, as are the local ones with different sizes and periods everywhere. What is pretty clear though, is that there should be an increase in size today. I'll probably report from the beach before 7am.

Wind map at noon. Should be calm everywhere until 9-10.


Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
2:02a  +2.4   1:18p  +1.9   8:03a  +0.7   7:40p  -0.2    6:35a   5:48p    

Second day of not so remarkable wave generation on the north shore, but that's only temporary.


Not much either from the south, the real strong fetch is the black one blocked by Australia.


Morning sky.

Sunday, November 10, 2019

6.30am hookipa is head and a half and clean.
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Sunday 11 10 19 morning call

Another great day of surfing in Maui, both on the north and south shore yesterday. I surfed Hookipa twice and in between I took these photos.

Tanner Hendrickson loading up in the bottom turn...


...so that he can throw radical turns off the top.


Kane keeps impressing me with the fluidity of his lines and his relaxed, John John-like style.


What's wrong with the guy on the left?!



3am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
3.8ft @ 13s from 216° (SW)
2ft @ 12s from 225° (SW)

Lanai
2.6ft @ 15s from 187° (S)
1.9ft @ 13s from 204° (SSW)
 
Pretty different numbers and directions at the buoys, that's when you rely even more on the observation of the fetches from a week ago. Below is a collage (Oct 1 to 6) I posted already, for your reference. Once again, to me it seems that the fetch of the 4th is the strongest, so I expect the swell to be reinforced tomorrow.

That seems to be confirmed from what I saw at the Samoa buoy a couple of days ago: a clear boost during the night of the 6th. From the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines we learn that at 15s it takes 4 days for the swell to get here, so it will be interesting to see if the same will happen locally tonight.


In the meantime, of course, check the Lahaina webcam to see today's conditions. How's that ominous looking 6am wall of water?


North shore
NW101
4.8ft @ 12s from 318° (NW)
4.3ft @ 10s from 339° (NNW)

Waimea
3.7ft @ 12s from 333° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 13s from 331° (NNW)

Pauwela
5.4ft @ 13s from 344° (NNW)
2.5ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
2.1ft @ 9s from 16° (NNE) 
 
NNW swell coming down with the period, but still a solid 5.4ft 13s at Pauwela at 3am. Below is the graph of the three reported buoys on which I noticed:
1) the swell had a pronounced and narrow peak at the NW buoy between 7 and 11am yesterday. A little more relaxed peak happened at Waimea during the night, so we can expect the swell to be peaking in Maui right now. The trend during the day is going to be of a slow decline, but we're probably talking head and a half plus to start with.
2) Waimea reached 5ft, Pauwela 6ft. For a swell from the NW-NNW, that is not possible under any circumstances, I'm gonna blame the sensitivity of the buoys or the elaboration of the data that Surfline does (most likely this last one).
 
Wind map at noon. Should be windless till 10-11am.


North Pacific only has a couple of tiny fetches today. Nothing to worry about, the jet stream is looking good for the whole week: more storms and swells to come and trades at bay until next weekend.


South Pacific has a fetch in the Tasman Sea and a small SSE one, which is the tail of a much bigger one aiming east of us of which we should get some angular spreading.


Morning sky.

Saturday, November 09, 2019

7am hookipa has inconsistent but increasing head high sets from the new nw swell and wonderful conditions.
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Saturday 11 9 19 morning call

Another day of fun waves at Hookipa. October had wind (and big waves) for a few days at the beginning, and then it has been pretty much windless.


4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
3.1ft @ 14s from 186° (S)

Lanai
2.1ft @ 14s from 196° (SSW)

Nice readings at the local buoys, the first pulse of the amply predicted south swell is here. Imo, there will be another bigger pulse on Monday, but in the meantime, there's some occasional head highers at the harbor and absolutely perfect conditions. Check the Lahaina webcam yourself if interested.



North shore
NW101
5.8ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)

NW001
4.2ft @ 13s from 306° (WNW)

Waimea
2.5ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)
2.3ft @ 9s from 347° (NNW)

Pauwela
3.9ft @ 9s from 48° (NE)
2.1ft @ 11s from 348° (NNW)
0.5ft @ 5s from 45° (NE)
0.3ft @ 18s from 348° (NNW)
 
New NW swell is up at the NW buoys (although with significantly different readings: 5.8ft vs 4.2ft at 13s). Waimea and Pauwela don't really show much of it yet, but it should come up steadily throughout the day. Below is the graph of NW101, which is not particularly clear, so for once I circled the black line (sum of all the energies in the water) to indicate a rise that started around 6pm yesterday.

GP's rule of thumb for the travel time says 16h @16s +/- 1h -/+1s, so at 13s it takes 19 hours to get here. From dawn to dask, the size should increase. Probably starting with the usual head high stuff. I will possibly report from the beach around 7am... unless I turn around at Lanes and go surf in Lahaina.


Wind map at noon. Should be windless till 10-11.


North Pacific has a couple of NW fetches, both pretty large, but also weak.


South Pacific has a weak SSE fetch (the one in the Tasman Sea is too weak to do anything for us).


Morning sky.

Friday, November 08, 2019

7am hookipa has chest to head high glassy waves. Not particularly consistent and a bit fat.
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