Wednesday, July 18, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is knee to waist and clean. ukumehame has texture

Wednesday 7 18 18 morning call

A longboard, a SUP foiling and a shortboard session for me yesterday, as this fantastic summer keeps on giving. I caught about 10 waves in the first, 20 in the second and 3 in the third. It might be that scarcity makes it precious, but the feeling of pushing hard on the fins, turning tight and hitting the lip when shortboarding remains my favorite, without a doubt.

It might also be because I'm not as good as Nathan here. He can ride 30-40 waves without coming down and he's gonna do the upcoming Molokai to Oahu (July 29) race on a SUP with the foil. It'll be interesting to see how he does compared Kai and Zane. Talking about which, I got some insides from the last Maui to Molokai race, but I'll wait until a great video that I saw on facebook gets uploaded on youtube.



3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 14s from 162° (SSE)

SW
1.9ft @ 14s from 166° (SSE)

SE
2.4ft @ 14s from 140° (SE)

Barbers
1.4ft @ 15s from 200° (SSW)
0.5ft @ 22s from 199° (SSW)

14-15s swell holds on and will provide most of the waves for the day (still the usual knee to waist is my guess, but I'll report when I get there), but Barbers also feels half a foot @ 22s which is a good sign for the upcoming days. The map of July 10 was an intricate one. Lots of strong fetches, which I circled in red if oriented towards us, in blue if oriented elsewhere but with hope of angular spreading.
In the midst of all that circling, I overlooked a direct fetch to the S of the Tasman Sea which, seen the direction at Barbers (which is more or less reliable), could be the source of the very long period energy. I made amend by circling it in black and publishing it again here below.


North shore
Pauwela
5.4ft @ 9s from 82° (E)
4.4ft @ 6s from 73° (ENE)

The period went up a second at Pauwela, and today the waves at Hookipa should reflect that. Occasionally shoulder to head high is my optimistic guess, seen the not ideal direction.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch, today with a bit of length.


South Pacific map has scattered little fetches, but overall pretty grim for the second day in a row.


Morning sky shows clouds moving in from the west.

Tuesday, July 17, 2018

6.30 a.m lahaina side is smaller than yesterday but still knee to waist and clean. ukumehame windy

Tuesday 7 17 18 morning call

Another excellent longboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. The second one allowed me to witness the best prone foiling I've ever seen, Kai Lenny included. This south African kid called Nathan is a real pelican.

For the third time in the last couple of weeks, the waves in Lahaina improved greatly in the second half of the morning. Obviously, it's not a tide thing, as it was different all the times, it must be a remarkable coincidence. Here's a couple of shots between sessions.

Why do I drive every morning to the south shore? The answer is in the superior quality of the conditions. Why do I live in Maui? One of the reasons is that it has the shortest commute time between north and south shore.


A big set hits the guardrails area.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 13s from 173° (S)

SW
1.6ft @ 15s from 170° (S)

SE
1.7ft @ 13s from 142° (SE)

Barbers
2ft @ 14s from 212° (SW)

There we go again, 2f 14s... I'll report when I get there, but you guys should know by now what that means: uncrowded, small, clean waves. No signs yet of the energy of the fetches E of New Zealand I outlined in yesterday's collage. No big deal, as we still have the Tasman Sea energy going. Barbers' direction is correct, the outer buoys, as usual, are all over the place. Surfline told me that they will add Lanai, but it hasn't happened yet. I'll send email n.5.

North shore
Pauwela
6.1ft @ 8s from 83° (E)

Slightly bigger windswell at Pauwela, nonetheless Hookipa looked pretty small (like waist high) from the distance yesterday at sunset.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific only has the windswell fetch.


South Pacific has a couple of small SSE fetches.


Morning sky.

Monday, July 16, 2018

10 a.m lahaina side has improved and now it has waist to occasionally chest high clean waves. photo taken at launiupoko.
   

7 a.m. lahaina side has inconsistent knee to waist high waves. smaller than yesterday. ukumehame and launiupoko areas are glassy, the first one a bit wobbly.
   

Monday 7 16 18 morning call

Another excellent longboard session for me yesterday. Waves were very clean all morning in Lahaina before the onshore breeze picked up a little later than usual. I don't have a photo of the day (no, that's not Breakwall), so here's Bruno Santos on an absolute gem at Padang-Padang on the first day of the Rip Curl contest. The semifinals will be run Thursday (which for us is Wednesday) when a solid SSW swell of 10f 18s is predicted to hit Bali.



Here's the highlights of the first two rounds.


3am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.7ft @ 15s from 191° (SSW)

SW
2.1ft @ 14s from 203° (SSW)

SE
1.4ft @ 15s from 269° (W)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 15s from 219° (SW)

There we go again, 2f 15s, not a big swell, not many people know about it, not a weekend... you know where I'm going. Will report when I get there.

Below is the collage of the maps of July 8,9,10 and 11. As you can see in the first one on the left, the fetch in the Tasman Sea was pretty decent, as was the energy we received yesterday out of it. It should last a couple of days before new energy from that intricate mix of blue and red fetches on the map of the 10th will arrive. That'll be interesting to observe.


North shore
Pauwela
5.5ft @ 8s from 71° (ENE)

Windswell only at the buoy, yesterday at sunset Hookipa was waist to chest, occasionally shoulder high.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch.


No fetches oriented towards us in the South Pacific, hopefully we'll get a bit of angular spreading from the blue one aimed at the Americas.


Morning sky.

Sunday, July 15, 2018

10.30 a.m. lahaina side has very inconsistent sets of the new long period sw swell. they seemed at least waist high, but I haven't seen many. flat to tiny in the long lulls. ukumehame had good wind and launiupoko area is glassy

Sunday 7 15 18 morning call

13 hours of working was all I did yesterday. I'm so thankful that I only do that once a year. Kai Lenny instead won the second Maui to Molokai race which, I assume, had less wind and smaller waves than the first one, but the wind hugged the Molokai coast better allowing him to foil all the way to the finish line and set a new record of 2h 17m. Lots of assumptions there, don't quote me. I also saw a shot of Zane (who came second) foiling with a Maliko 200 this time, while the previous time (seen the stronger wind and bigger waves) he was on a Iwa. No idea what foil Kai was on.

Here's the super human at the arrival, for once looking a little tired.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore
W
2.1ft @ 11s from 154° (SSE)

Barbers
1.5ft @ 11s from 185° (S)
1.2ft @ 16s from 217° (SW)

Everything as predicted at the buoys. The old S swell is down to minimal levels of energy, while a new low long period SW one shows up at Barbers. Excited? You shouldn't. The start of a new SW swell coming from the Tasman Sea is always painfully slow and there won't be that many sets. As a matter of fact, the waves I'm watching on the split screen at Ala Moana seem to mostly belong to the old swell and there's frequent moments of flatness.

This one instead is a solid 16s one, so conditions should slowly improve throughout the day (from the wave size and consistency point of view, of course). I'll probably cruise over the Lahaina side later, right now I'm enjoying a lazy morning of rest.


North shore.
Pauwela
4.6ft @ 8s from 60° (ENE)
3.6ft @ 7s from 58° (ENE)
 
Windswell only at Hookipa, that's gonna be the case for the whole week, but with higher numbers towards the second half thanks to the increase of the trades which is forecasted. Below is the windguru 10 days table. I see some downwinders happening.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has a couple of windswell fetches.


South Pacific doesn't have much other then the possible angular spreading of a swell oriented towards the Americas.


Morning sky.

Saturday, July 14, 2018

7 14 18 morning call


An excellent longboard session for me yesterday (I gave it a 9) in a morning that saw Lahaina fire up again (very similarly to last Saturday). Here are some shots.
 
Uncle get style.

Other than the massive board she's riding, let me draw your attention to the set hitting town in the background (possibly head high at Breakwall).

Knee high waves at Launiupoko often offer perfect sections for hanging five.

To hang ten on a ankle high one instead, you really need to very good.

So much beauty in this world.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore

W
1.9ft @ 12s from 143° (SE)

SW
2.7ft @ 12s from 159° (SSE)

SE
2.3ft @ 12s from 161° (SSE)

Barbers
2.2ft @ 12s from 184° (S)

Yesterday I said that I love 2f 14s and after surfing one of my favorite spots with only two other guys, that confirmed to be the case for sure. But 2f 12s can be just as good, if you know which spots prefer shorter periods. Thousand Peaks (wind permitting) is one of them, as it gives life to the proverbial many (maybe not a thousand) peaks with peeling waves, as opposed to closing out ones.

I can't surf today, as it is the day of the massive sale at Hi-Tech. Probably the one day of the year that I can call a hard and long day of work. I guess one day a year is not too bad and it makes me appreciate my light schedule even more.

Come down to check it out, incredible discounts and prices give away at each hour. For example, the KT foil board will be given away at 5pm. We're gonna stoke out some lucky persons with two Starboard SUP's too, but I don't know at what times.


North shore
Pauwela
6ft @ 8s from 74° (ENE)

Windswell on its way up, here's Pat Caldwell's take: July ups the ante for tropical activity for Hawaii and subtle upper and lower atmospheric features lead to wiggles in the isobars surrounding the large high pressure cell. In turn these lead to subtle ups and down in the local winds and windswell...

Wind map at noon.

Like yesterday, north Pacific shows a local easterly windswell fetch and a more distant NE one. Referring to this last one, Pat Caldwell comments:  this could bring in longer-period windswell building Monday from 40-60 degrees, peaking Tuesday near the average, and dropping Wednesday


South Pacific has two small/weak fetches oriented towards us (one in the Tasman Sea and heavily blocked) and a much bigger/stronger one (in blue) oriented towards central America. Hopefully we will get some angular spreading out of that. Angular spreading, what a wonderful thing that waves do.

Morning sky.