Tuesday, November 13, 2018

6.30am hookipa has head to head and a half waves. Light wind but relatively poor shape and soft with the high tide.
There's some good sections though.
5.5

Tuesday 11 13 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and a windfoiling session for me yesterday. The waves were bigger than yesterday, consequence of a more direct aim of the fetch that generated it. Tomoko was taking photos on her way out after her wave and here's a few to illustrate the phantasmagoria of exaltation the lucky Maui foilers get to experience in this incredible place. Btw, in case you don't know that ph word, here's the meaning: a sequence of real or imaginary images like those seen in a dream .And yes, I had many foiling dreams already. Some of them might even happened while sleeping.

The ride starts either by catching an unbroken wave on the reef (if not too big for your skills) or the white water of a broken one just inside. Then it continues like this.


And then it keeps going like this.

 
This one shows that if you want, you can keep going right all the way to the beach. That would be a very long paddle back though, so it's a good idea to cut back to the left, also because the cut backs are incredibly fun, as the foil accelerates in them.

This one shows the strap setup of my Kalama 5.8. This is one of Dave's own customs and the inserts were only for regular stance. No big deal, I added the stick on inserts after having checked in a strapless session where my feet needed to be. Details:

- the back strap is off center on the toe side, so that foot ends up right in the middle
- the front strap is a little wider than necessary to allow quick ejection (I like the back one tighter though)
- that extra insert in front of the back strap is for downwinders. When trying to take off on a slopy non breaking chop, my back foot needs to be more forward than the position in this photo, otherwise the weight would be too far back and I end up missing it. So I made a custom long strap that goes from the insert up front (the unused one in this photo) to the last hole in the back. In that way, I can push my foot against the front end of the strap, start pumping like a madman to make it foil and if and when it is up on the foil, slide it back where it needs to be for the flight.

Even though it's personal preference, I love using footstraps when SUP foiling (one of the two reasons why I prefer it greatly compared to prone foiling, the other one being the much greater wave count consequence of the much faster paddle back out) and their correct positioning is key. Unless you have a plate adapter foil (which position can be adjusted), sometimes you need to change their position if you change wing size. Ironically, I like to wave windfoil strapless.


The windsurfing at Hookipa looked pretty epic. Here's four shots by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery, starting with Maui's own Kai Lenny.

Here's a sequence of remarkable bottom turns starting from mad Frenchman Manu.

Here's a double.

Browsinho, what a sailor!

4am significant buoy readings
North shore (it's winter, let's talk north shore first).
NW101
5.7ft @ 11s from 358° (N)

Hanalei
5.1ft @ 9s from 5° (N)
3.5ft @ 13s from 335° (NNW)

Waimea
3.5ft @ 9s from 358° (N)
3.1ft @ 7s from 24° (NNE)
2.7ft @ 13s from 338° (NNW)
2.6ft @ 11s from 353° (N)

Pauwela
4ft @ 12s from 349° (NNW)
3.3ft @ 9s from 4° (N)
2.9ft @ 8s from 16° (NNE)
2.3ft @ 6s from 36° (NE)
 
Plenty energy in the water also today. Pauwela reached almost 6f 11s yesterday, so today might be a bit smaller than yesterday. But as you can see from the picture below (NW101 and Pauwela's graphs + Surfline forecast), the NW101 buoy is trending up again and we might see an increment also locally in the late afternoon. The real big day is tomorrow though, where Surfline has the new pulse peaking at 8.3f 12sw from 340 and the wind will be very good for surfing in the early morning anywhere on the north shore.


South shore
Barbers
1ft @ 18s from 205° (SSW)

This is the only southerly readings I found at all the buoys, but it's a good one. Sorry, not too focused on the south shore, check the Ala Moana cam to see what's going on over there.

Wind map at noon.

North Pacific has scattered fetches, no shortage of waves any time soon.


Nothing from the south.


Morning sky.

Monday, November 12, 2018

Monday 11 12 18 morning call

A SUP foiling and two windfoiling sessions for me yesterday. The wave windfoiling thing is growing into me greatly. It is like gracefully dancing with the ocean. Unfortunately with the mouth mount the videos don't show that at all, so here's a video of Casey Treichler with a setup similar to mine: Gofoil Iwa and a strapless board.


I know that still doesn't look particularly exciting, but every cut back you do from upwind to downwind and vice versa, is a beautiful step of that ocean dance.

This other video instead is a more aggressive kind of WWF. It's the Horue guy Philippe Caneri with straps and aerials. I don't think I'll ever get into that, as regular windsurfing seems more appropriate to me to do such things, but I sure wouldn't mind trying that setup too.



4-5am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
1.2ft @ 15s from 216° (SW)

Lanai
1.3ft @ 15s from 207° (SSW)

I got a report of very small waves on the south shore yesterday, but not sure how reliable it is. To me it seems that a foot 15s would produce a knee to waist high set once in a long while and that's exactly what Ala Moana receive in between long flat spells.


North shore
NW101
5.9ft @ 10s from 4° (N)
3.5ft @ 14s from 356° (N)
 
Hanalei
4.7ft @ 11s from 353° (N)
4.7ft @ 9s from 353° (N)
2.5ft @ 15s from 349° (NNW)
 
Waimea
5.8ft @ 12s from 355° (N)
5.4ft @ 9s from 349° (NNW)
1.8ft @ 16s from 329° (NW)
 
Pauwela
4.6ft @ 12s from 343° (NNW)
4.4ft @ 8s from 354° (N)
3.4ft @ 9s from 338° (NNW)
1.8ft @ 18s from 327° (NW)
 
Old swell holding at 4.6f 12s from 343 at Pauwela, with a new small 18s period in the mix. I believe that is from that fetch in the very NW corner we observed in past few days. Below is the collage of the maps of Nov 8,9,10 and 11. The black arrow indicates such fetch, the blue arrow indicates the much closer fetch that generated the waves we've been blessed with in the last couple of days. Not much energy to expect from the distant one at this moment, but as you can see, the fetch then got closer and stronger and already tomorrow we're going to start receiving some of that energy. The biggest day according to the Surfline forecast is Wednesday though at 8.3f 12s from 340.
 
Wind map at noon.
 
NW fetch for Wednesday's swell still going strong in the North Pacific.
 
Nothing from the south.
 
Morning sky.

Sunday, November 11, 2018

7.30am hookipa has head to head and a half waves of mixed periods and directions. Very light wind, but kinda bumpy nonetheless and fat at high tide.
5

Sunday 11 11 18 morning call

A day of rest for me yesterday (the 4 in 1 the day before was made also with the bad conditions of yesterday in mind). No photo of the day, here's a couple of random shots from my facebook feed.

Ola Eleogram is missing Nias and whishes there was a wave like that in Hana. To which someone commented:"there's one like that on the other side of the island!".


Which made me curious to see how long of a drive Ola has to do if he wants to go surf the Bay. 2h 45m might as well be the longest surf spot commute in Maui.


This is Restaurant recently posted by Namotu.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
1.3ft @ 16s from 220° (SW)

Lanai
1.1ft @ 16s from 226° (SW)

That foot might be just a foot, but it's 16s and that's a lot better than flat. There have been waist high clean waves on the south shore the last couple of days. Should be the case also today. That's what Ala Moana shows too, with the extremely rare bigger set like the one below.


North shore
NW101
7.8ft @ 12s from 357° (N)
6.8ft @ 8s from 7° (N)

Hanalei
7ft @ 10s from 345° (NNW)
5.6ft @ 13s from 344° (NNW)

Waimea
5.6ft @ 13s from 342° (NNW)
3.5ft @ 9s from 340° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 11s from 342° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 7s from 351° (N)

Pauwela
5.4ft @ 8s from 26° (NNE)
4.6ft @ 12s from 334° (NNW)

The NNW swell is breaking down in different periods and Pauwela is registering the smallest numbers, I think because of the longer travel. But there should be plenty relatively stormy waves also today. As usual, the conditions will be determined by the wind which today should be light trades on the north shore.

Wind map at noon. Possible Kihei downwinder.


That fetch screams Honolua Bay. 8f 12s from 340 predicted by Surfline on Wednesday.


The Windy maps are great because they show the intensity of the winds with the colors, but once in a while it's good to admire a classic weather map with the good old isobars. Specially when they look like that.


A tiny S fetch in the South Pacific.


Morning sky. The front has passed, cold air follows.

Saturday, November 10, 2018

Saturday 11 10 18 morning call

A lovely four in one for me yesterday taking full advantage of the car quiver, a day off and the nice waves. The disciplines were: shortboard surfing, SUP surfing, wave windfoiling (WWF) and SUP foiling. Despite the great variability in size and shape, I gave Hookipa an 8 in the early morning, Here's a shot at the point.


Then I went SUP surfing because I needed to know if a tiny and relatively thin 6.5 I bought for Thousand Peaks would work at Kanaha. The answer is no, too small/unstable, but I managed to catch three waves and that challenge was a lot of fun. Where there's a challenge there's fun for me, and I had plenty in the following WWF session. It was my first time in this spot with this size waves (logo high on the reef) and I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. Unfortunately WWF videos are not particularly exciting, but whoever foils knows how much fun it is to be up on the foil and carried by a wave... for 2 minutes!

Since that wasn't too exciting, here's the clip of the only time I ventured outside the reef and caught a wave from out there. A logo high wave will make you go too fast for the Gofoil Iwa to handle the speed (with me on it, of course). I would have had no problem with the Kai, but then I would have not been able to stay on the foil in the light wind moments. The reason I post this clip is this:
IT'S ABSOLUTELY KEY TO LET GO IMMEDIATELY WHEN YOU FIGURE SOMETHING IS ABOUT TO GO WRONG IN ANY FOILING DISCIPLINE.

In this case, I even unconsciously give myself a "HERE!" to signal the moment to eject. I might have had a chance to save it by applying even more pressure on the front of the board, but it felt like too risky. Wave windfoiling is not something radical that I want to do on big waves. Inside reforms are just fine (that's the same ones we ride when we SUP foil), so I'll stick to that.

Session 4 was just the icing on the cake. Compared to the morning struggle on the regular 6.5 on the big and wobbly open ocean waves, the stability of my Kalama 5.8 with a foil underneath and the perfection of the waves inside the harbor was totally relaxing. Here's a foiler on a tiny prone board.


Some Neil Pryde sailors were testing their race foil and they made it look beautiful. Massive sails and effortless gliding in less than 10 knots of wind. One of them is initiating a jibe in this picture.


Ok, that was my day. Here's a couple of pictures by Jimmie Hepp to show that if you had the skills, Hookipa was absolutely gorgeous for windsurfing. This one is from this gallery.


This other one is from this other gallery. Browsinho is such a master of rotations off the lip that he managed to make Levi's turns look kinda boring. That's something.


6am significant buoy readings
South shore
Lanai
2.5ft @ 13s from 249° (WSW)                        
0.9ft @ 20s from 218° (SW)
All the other buoys are "overwhelmed" by the strong NNW energy, Lanai is the only one to keep its composure, even though the directions are questionable. That's when having a webcam in Lahaina hosted by Ozolio would help. Unfortunately at the moment there's no such a thing, so we got to live with the images of Ala Moana in Oahu, which shows very small waves.
North shore
NW101
7.4ft @ 13s from 355° (N)
Hanalei
7.9ft @ 13s from 346° (NNW)
Waimea
6.6ft @ 13s from 342° (NNW)
Pauwela
4.6ft @ 13s from 330° (NW)
4.1ft @ 8s from 29° (NNE)
3.1ft @ 11s from 338° (NNW)
There's plenty energy from the NNW (and plenty more to come), there is no question about that. The question is where to find a place that is protected from the onshore winds that are predicted to become pretty strong in the second half of the day. Not an easy task, but not impossible either. Hopefully the map below will help.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has two fetches oriented towards us, the proximity will make the waves from the closer one much bigger, but also with shorter and mixed overlapping periods.
Nothing from the south.
Morning sky.

Friday, November 09, 2018

7.30am hookipa has tons of waves of very variable size and shape. From head to occasionally double and from perfectly peeling to very wobbly. How do you score that? I had a lot of fun, so I give it an 8.

6am hookipa seems head high and fat in the high tide and in the semi dark. I'll be more precise after my session.

Friday 11 9 18 morning call

A shortboard and two SUP foiling sessions for me yesterday. 50 minutes and two (long) waves were the numbers of the first crowded one. The waves seemed to improve by the time I left. Here's Deneb turning hard off the bottom.


And here's one of those magicians that can find those tiny barrels at the point.


The parking at foil beach was full too, but the scene and lineups were much more relaxed. It's also a lot easier to share waves with the fellow foilers.


Gorgeous background in this photo by Jeremy Riggs.


This other shot is by Tomoko from this gallery.


I had 45 minutes before work when I decided to do another SUP foiling session and try to film a wave all the way to the beach with the gopro. That was an easy task, as all the three waves I caught went all the way (high tide helps the inside bump, as more energy travels across the reef). Here's the very first one I caught. The paddle out on a SUP is about 10 minutes (probably double on a prone), while the ride all the way to the beach is about 2 minutes. Enjoy.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
2.4ft @ 13s from 208° (SSW)

Lanai
2ft @ 13s from 203° (SSW)                        
0.2ft @ 22s from 205° (SSW)
 
And with that sliver of 22s energy registered, Lanai wins the contest for the most sensitive buoy of the year! Too bad that won't be felt by anyone (if you do, you might win the contest for most sensitive surfer of the year), but what counts is the 2f 13s. I've not been to the south shore in a week or so, Hi-Tech customers tell me of waist high waves. Should be around that also today.

North shore
NW101
6.8ft @ 11s from 3° (N)
 
Hanalei
7.9ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)
 
Waimea
4.9ft @ 12s from 344° (NNW)
 
Pauwela
4.4ft @ 9s from 13° (NNE)
3.1ft @ 11s from 332° (NNW)
 
NNW swell on the sharp rise at NW and Hanalei buoys (circled in red in the graphs collage below). From the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines, we learn that at 11s it takes 11h from Hanalei to Maui. At the moment, Pauwela is only registering the leftover energy of the fun size swell that has delighted us the last couple of days, but there should be an increase in the energy right around mid morning. Nonetheless, due to the wind conditions (which count much more than the waves!), the early morning session will be a lot cleaner than the rest of the day. Hookipa beach report coming up at dawn.

Wind map at 9am shows some light trades already ruining the surfing conditions.


Wind map at noon has windfoiling written all over.


The low north of the islands is now aiming the winds better at us (unfortunately much more energy missing us to the west). NNW swell predicted by Surfline for Saturday, Sunday, Monday around 7-8f 11s, but the wind will be onshore.


Nothing in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.