Sunday, January 20, 2019

6.45am hookipa is up to head high and relatively clean.

Sunday 1 20 19 morning call

I finally managed to rest for a whole day and my body is thankful. As easily predicted, the windsurfers hit the waves at Hookipa in large numbers. This photo by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery shows the relatively short period of the current swell.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys. I've not been paying any attention to the south shore at all, but below are the maps of the 12th and 13th that show a couple of fetches in the Tasman Sea and straight south of us. So, despite the lack of indication at the buoys, there might be some small waves breaking. As usual, the presence of a local webcam in Lahaina would greatly help the assessment of the size, so check the Ozolio website if you are in a position of hosting one.

North shore
3.7ft @ 10s from 12° (NNE)

3.3ft @ 9s from 351° (N)
3ft @ 11s from 347° (NNW)

4.9ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)

4.5ft @ 11s from 343° (NNW)
3.8ft @ 6s from 60° (ENE)
2.9ft @ 9s from 338° (NNW)

NNW swell pretty steady locally (Pauwela's reading at 5am was 5.1ft @ 11s from 341°), but with a downward trend at the upstream buoys. We should expect fun size waves all day, possibly smaller at sunset and definitely smaller tomorrow. Next NW swell is predicted by Surfline to start showing only Tuesday, with the two days after that being the relatively big ones. I will report from Hookipa, but with the limitation of the text only, until I figure out why the Blogger app is not uploading photos anymore (need help on that, please!).

Wind map at noon shows the wind line getting closer to the coast in the Kahului area. It should be totally glassy till then instead, seen the ESE original direction.

Pretty wide WNW fetch (between 290 and 310, not ideal for Maui) in the North Pacific. Surfline calls for 8f 15s from 309 on Wednesday, up to 11f 15s from 314 on Thursday.

Small S fetch in the South Pacific.

Morning sky.

Saturday, January 19, 2019

tech help needed

My Blogger app on my Android phone is not able to publish posts with pictures anymore.
I could use the blogger webpage like I did in this case, but that's too many steps and I'm not going to do it.
That's the reason why the last couple of beach reports were text only.
After a brief google query, I haven't found any solution, so here I'm asking the readers if they feel like investigating the problem for me. Cheers.
PS. I did try to uninstall and install the app again. No luck. 

Saturday 1 19 18 morning call

Two SUP foiling sessions for me yesterday and another brilliant opportunity to rest went wasted. The thing is that with the foiling added to the disciplines pool, there almost never are bad conditions that allow you to rest. I'll try again today. This is Jason yesterday in a shot by Chris.

5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys

North shore
7.4ft @ 10s from 351° (N)

5.6ft @ 13s from 341° (NNW)
5.2ft @ 9s from 339° (NNW)
5.8ft @ 10s from 333° (NNW)
5.4ft @ 11s from 328° (NW)
6.9ft @ 11s from 331° (NNW)
3.7ft @ 10s from 335° (NNW)
3.6ft @ 6s from 358° (N)
There's plenty energy at the buoys (overhead at Hookipa), but this batch of waves isn't as clean as it's been. Plus there's a bit a trades already on it. Plus I need some rest, not even sure I'm going to have a look later. Sorry.

Wind map at noon. Wind/kitesurfers will get on that like flies on honey.
North Pacific has a new WNW fetch. Some of that energy will be blocked for Maui, but some won't.
Nothing in the South (the circled one is blocked by New Zealand).
Morning sky.

Friday, January 18, 2019

7.15am hookipa is head high and relatively clean with occasional bigger sets. A bit lumpy, but much better than I thought. And it doesn't look like it's going to get onshore anytime soon.

Friday 1 18 19 morning call

Two shortboard sessions for me yesterday. As reported, the first one had excellent conditions until the Kona got stronger. The thing with the moderate/strong Kona is that it makes the waves look even better from the beach (more open barrels, if anything), but it's not as good in the water (at least with my skills). Here's a shot from my best wave of the second session. You might think I should be slowing down more, but what you can't see is the fast section I have down the line. So it's either:
1) get barreled, get a killer shot, get pounded or
2) don't get barreled, get a decent shot, don't get pounded and make the whole wave.
Fortunately, I acted completely by instinct made the whole wave unscathed.

And here's a fast runner. There were a lot of them.

Here's some photos I took after my sessions, around 3pm. Got blessed with some sun light. The light with the Kona is SO dramatic.
Browsinho landed that aerial no problem and then, unfortunately for me and you guys, sailed back in.

That looks like Philippe.

Morgan back on NP gear.

I just love the way the colors of Pascal's sail stand out. He had a looong fun session.

Yep, The point looks good with the Kona.

This guy got two barrels (below) on the same wave and got a 10 from the Italian judge.

Brother Sid.

More windsurfing and surfing shots in this gallery from Jimmie Hepp.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.7ft @ 11s from 276° (W)

I got a report of head high waves in north Kihei yesterday. I'm not even going to try to find out what they were. Btw, without Pat Caldwell, I'm just as lost as you guys. Actually, probably more.

North shore
7.9ft @ 11s from 344° (NNW)
5.9ft @ 10s from 335° (NNW)

7.5ft @ 12s from 317° (NW)
4.6ft @ 10s from 313° (NW)

4.9ft @ 9s from 321° (NW)
4.9ft @ 12s from 322° (NW)

3.4ft @ 11s from 335° (NNW)
3.2ft @ 13s from 330° (NW)
2.7ft @ 10s from 337° (NNW)
1.7ft @ 6s from 346° (NNW)
Because of the onshore winds that will blow after the pass of the front associated with yesterday's Konas, today the ocean will be quite stormy and the contrast with lovely clean conditions we had since the 12th (that's when I got back) will be remarkable. Good day to rest, unless you catch some surf very early in the morning. The wind model below only calls for onshores to settle around 8am, so there might be 1.5 hours of pseudo-glassiness. But look what happened during the night (perfectly predicted by the model): a first part of the front generated a good two hours of NNW winds. I bet that left some sickness in the water. Plus, look at the mix of periods at the buoy. Never gonna be as clean as yesterday. And that's why it's 6.45am and I'm still typing this call at home...
The webcam confirms that. Disorganized breaking patterns, even with no wind on it just yet.

Wind mat at 8am shows the arrival of light onshores, but it could be no wind until then.

Wind map at noon.

WNW and NWN fetches of different shapes today in the North Pacific.

Nothing from the South.

Morning sky shows the front that is done passing over us. Onshore messy conditions will follow.

Thursday, January 17, 2019

6.45am hookipa is head to head and half and clean. Light kona.

Thursday 1 17 19 morning call

Two shortboard sessions for me yesterday. Here are a few waves from the first fabulous one.

And while I was doing that, my foiler buddies were having a blast again. Chris Pagdilao took these killer shots.
Kathy Shipman is a bit of a hero of mine.

Alika is not a light guy, but he flies like a sparrow.

Getting artsy here, I love the mist created by the waves on the background.

Nose riding. If I'm ever going to learn how to ride that 4 feet prone foil board I bought a couple of months ago, I shall try that. But that project is delayed until summer time, I got more fun things to do in the meantime.

My plan was to foil myself as a second session, but as I dropped my SUP foil board on the beach, the wind started blowing Kona and I immediately pack it back up. For foiling, onshore is the new offshore and viceversa! Plans are made to be changed and the second surfing spot wasn't too shabby either.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
2.9ft @ 13s from 267° (W)
Lanai still shows a pretty westerly direction of the wrap, so there might still be some waves in Kihei, but with the wind blowing Kona it's going to be onshore and blown out.

North shore
6ft @ 12s from 295° (WNW)
3.3ft @ 10s from 286° (WNW)
4.4ft @ 14s from 302° (WNW)
3.7ft @ 13s from 308° (WNW)
3.6ft @ 11s from 317° (NW)
5.5ft @ 13s from 317° (NW)
4ft @ 12s from 338° (NNW)
3.8ft @ 14s from 325° (NW)
1.8ft @ 8s from 38° (NE)
NW energy trending down after a wonderful stretch of great waves and ideal conditions. This morning there should still be some excellence until the Kona wind gets too strong, before a pass of front that fortunately will happen only tonight. 4f 12s at Pauwela also means that I will return to surf Hookipa (or at least to look at it), so expect a beach report from there.
Wind map at noon.
North Pacific has a small and distant W fetch and a much closer and longer NNW one.
Nothing from the south.
Morning sky.

Wednesday, January 16, 2019

Wednesday 1 16 19 morning call

A shortboard and a SUP foiling session for me yesterday. Here's a shot from the first one.

These are a couple of shots taken by Chris Pagdilao during the early foiling session. Jeremy Riggs is an elegant foiler. Killer light.

Mark Raaphorts' perfect use of the paddle in a tight front side cutback.

Conditions were pretty epic all morning. This is one of my many exhilarating rides I had around noon.

4am significant buoy readings
South shore
6.5ft @ 17s from 309° (WNW)
2.2ft @ 11s from 291° (WNW)
1.4ft @ 9s from 189° (S)
3.1ft @ 17s from 286° (WNW)
2.3ft @ 12s from 277° (W)
1.5ft @ 9s from 207° (SSW)
Ok, ok, I give up and admit that the waves that there have been in Kihei and Lahaina are from the wrap of the WNW swell. In the epic post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines I analyze the shadow angles of that area on a westerly swell. I just added a map that shows the possibility of the energy squeezing in also between Molokai and Lanai and copied the whole paragraph at the end of this post. Judging from the readings at the buoys, there should be something also out of the new WNW swell that is hitting today.
North shore
9.4ft @ 15s from 304° (WNW)
7.3ft @ 17s from 308° (WNW)
6.8ft @ 14s from 309° (WNW)

9.2ft @ 17s from 317° (NW)

8.5ft @ 17s from 320° (NW)
1.8ft @ 9s from 23° (NNE)

New WNW pulse peaked during the night. Below is the graph of NW101, Waimea and Pauwela, notice the double hump camel back shape. That means more westerly energy on tap for the day (original direction at the NW101 buoy is 304), once again 8.5f 17s are too much for me at Hookipa, once again I'll probably surf down the coast.

Wind map at noon. Pretty much another windless day and great conditions everywhere.

North Pacific has a new WNW and an old (was there yesterday) NNW fetch. Both kinda weak today.

Nothing from the South.

Morning sky.

Here's the abstract from the post Buoys to Maui travel times and Maui's shadow lines.

Let's talk also about the Kihei coast and the westerly swells.
Google Earth shows the shadow line from Lanai to Kalama park in Kihei as 273 degrees. Anything from there to straight west, doesn't get blocked/refracted and will have a more direct impact.

A little better angle applies to Ahihi Bay: 283.

But don't forget that a the bigger the size and the period of a swell, the more the waves have the ability to refract around land points. The photo below shows that as long as the swell is 290 or more west, the south point of Lanai will refract energy that has not been refracted by Ni'iahu. But if a swell is big and long period enough, even if it comes from directions more north of 290, it could still refract first over the south point of Ni'iahu, change its direction into 290 or more west, and then refract again over Lanai and hit Maui. I remember one coming from around 300 that provided double overhead waves to Kihei.

It all depends on each single swell and there's no mathematical/geometrical rules you can apply that work all the times.
I've see too many times very similar swells doing very different things.
That is also because if the swell has a direction at the NW buoy, that doesn't mean that the swell hitting the south point of Ni'iahu will have the exact same direction. It is possible that it will be more west there and that the waves will be bigger than you would expect based on these information I'm providing.
So this is just a reference to try to guess when it's worth to get in the car (or check the webcams).

Another possible (but rare) possibility for the energy of a WNW swell to reach Lahaina and Kihei is to squeeze in the channel between Lanai and Molokai. The picture below shows the shadow line from Ni'iahu, which is around 285.

The close up below shows a possible refraction pattern that such swell might have.