Sunday, July 21, 2019

Sunday 7 21 19 morning call

After 13.5 hours of work yesterday, today I feel like Alex Knost in this bottom turn below.


5am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
0.9ft @ 12s from 185° (S)
0.8ft @ 15s from 214° (SW)

Lanai
1ft @ 11s from 177° (S)
0.8ft @ 16s from 200° (SSW)

The expected small numbers continue as do the expected small waves. If you wait long enough, you get a wave like that. Check the webcam before going, it's mostly flat.


North shore
Mokapu
4.2ft @ 7s from 59° (ENE)

Hilo
4ft @ 8s from 68° (ENE)

Windswell trending down, the waves at Hookipa and on the east facing shores will be smaller/weaker than yesterday.

Wind map at noon.


The windswell fetch is the only relevant one in the North Pacific.


The SSW and SSE combo continues in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.

Saturday, July 20, 2019

Saturday 7 20 19 morning call

Big sale at Hi-Tech today (8am to 7pm), this is team rider Ola Eleogram in a lovely looking tube.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
1.1ft @ 12s from 185° (S)
0.6ft @ 16s from 207° (SSW)

Lanai
1.4ft @ 12s from 180° (S)

Southerly energy down to a little more than a foot and 12s, but Barbers feels an even smaller amount of 16s energy. There actually was a little fetch in the Tasman Sea a week ago, as the collage of the maps of July 13 and 14 shows below, but I wouldn't expect that to build much.


The Lahaina cam shows very small extremely clean waves, but check it yourself.


North shore
Mokapu
4.3ft @ 9s from 71° (ENE)

Hilo
6.7ft @ 9s from 88° (E)

2.4ft of difference between Mokapu and Hilo, Pauwela would probably be somewhere in the middle. That means that Hookipa will have small waves and a little more size can be found on the east facing shores.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch.


South Pacific continue to propose that SSW/SSE combo. We'll take it.


Morning sky.

Friday, July 19, 2019

Friday 7 19 19 morning call

After surfing the Lahaina perfection for the last... I don't know how many days, yesterday I surfed Pavillions and it was like going from heaven to hell. I might do that again today, just to be reminded of how good we have it on the other side... when there's waves. There's none now, but this photo of Cloudbreak posted yesterday by Brothers Surf Tours makes me hope that the flat spell is only going to last a few days. Don't get too excited, that might turn into waist high by the time it gets there.


No quality waves around it's the perfect scenario for me having to work 12+ hours at the Hi-Tech anniversary sale tomorrow. Just like Pavils, it reminds me of how good I have it (or more precisely I choose to have it) the other 364 days of the year. It's also the perfect scenario for you to come take advantage of the crazy deals on offer.


4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
1.6ft @ 14s from 177° (S)

Lanai
1.3ft @ 13s from 183° (S)
0.9ft @ 11s from 182° (S)

Tiny numbers at the buoy equal tiny waves in the water. Check the webcam yourself before going.


North shore
Mokapu
5.2ft @ 8s from 82° (E)

Hilo
7.1ft @ 9s from 98° (E)

Pretty decent windswell, specially at Hilo. What would Pauwela read? Probably something in between. Hookipa will have small, weak, mushy blown out waves throughout the day. They usually clean up quite nicely at sunset though.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific has the windswell fetch.


The Tasman Sea fetch is a bit weaker today, the SSE one keeps blowing instead. The two swells should arrive at the same time (hopefully starting Monday), it'll be interesting to watch the interaction. Some energy of the latter will be blocked by Big Island though, so we'll have to wait and see.


Morning sky.

Thursday, July 18, 2019

Thursday 7 18 19 morning call

As Pat Caldwell said, the largest south southern swell episode was waving goodbye yesterday, but there still were the waist to chest high sets I called. No photos of the day, here's a wonderful underwater shot posted by Namotu Island Resort.


3am significant buoy readings
Barbers
2.1ft @ 15s from 185° (S)

Lanai
1.3ft @ 13s from 194° (SSW)
1.2ft @ 15s from 183° (S)

South swell down to 13s, but surprisingly there's also a bit of 15s energy at the buoys. I checked the fetch maps and the only possible source I found for the latter was that deep south fetch I circled on July 10th (map re-posted below).


Whatever the source was, the Lahaina webcam shows flat conditions with the very occasional waist high+ set, like the one below. Check it yourself before eventually going, as it's pretty slow. Tomorrow might be completely flat.


North Shore
Mokapu
6.2ft @ 8s from 78° (ENE)

The NNE windswell episode is gone, now there's only the easterly trades one, which is on its way up. Hookipa had some weak, up to head high 8s waves yesterday, but with today's direction they should be smaller, although not completely flat.

Wind map at noon. Strap your boards well if you're driving by Ukumehame.


North shore has a pretty intense trades windswell fetch.


Just like yesterday, the South Pacific has a SSW fetch in the Tasman Sea and a SSE one.


Morning sky.


Wednesday, July 17, 2019

Wednesday 7 17 19 morning call

Another great day of surfing on the south shore yesterday, but I was too busy to take photos, so here's one of those mesmerizing photos of Teahupoo by Ben Thouard,


3am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
2.6ft @ 14s from 194° (SSW)

Lanai
3.3ft @ 7s from 166° (SSE)
2.5ft @ 14s from 193° (SSW)

Day 5 of this wonderful swell and the readings are some of my favorites. Should be in the waist to chest high range today (depending on the spot), I just hope that windswell at Lanai won't bother too much. Check the Lahaina webcam for size and conditions.

North shore
Hanalei
5.7ft @ 7s from 54° (ENE)

Waimea
4.5ft @ 8s from 16° (NNE)

Mokapu
5.2ft @ 8s from 56° (ENE)

Below are the maps of July 14 and 15 showing the fetch that generated the remarkable NE windswell at the local buoys. Surfline had it totally wrong at 1ft 8s, vicinity was the key for this one.

Hookipa had small waves yesterday at sunset and judging by the Waimea graph below, it should be definitely bigger today. Hard to call a size without the Pauwela data, but I'll push up to head high also based on the noise that I can hear. Probably messy, weak, windy and uncrowded.


Wind model didn't update yet, this is the noon map based on yesterday's run.


North Pacific has a windswell fetch.


South Pacific has a tiny Tasman Sea fetch and an unusual SSE one.


Morning sky.

Tuesday, July 16, 2019

Tuesday 7 16 19 morning call

Another great day of surfing on the south shore yesterday, Olowalu had some size.


The lefts had shape too.


This is an image of Tide Rivers at La Perouse on Sunday by Randy Sarrow. Images of surf breaks from blog readers are of great value for the blog, just make sure you send it to me the same day you take them please. Thanks!



3am significant buoy readings and discussion
Barbers
3.2ft @ 15s from 194° (SSW)

Lanai
3.7ft @ 15s from 190° (S)

Below is the Lanai graph showing a steady and slow downward trend in both size and period. That's what swells do and it's particularly noticeable with south swells, as it happens very slowly. A long travel distance spaces out the different periods travelling at different speeds more than a short travel distance.

Reader Scott Werden sent me this very interesting message: regarding your comment this morning about why the Samoa buoy seemed to have less energy than the buoys around Hawaii - the Samoa buoy is very close to shore, in only 82 meters of water. That is pretty shallow and I suspect there is a lot of attenuation of the swell and other interference effects from the shelf it is sitting on. Didn't know that, thanks a lot.


3.7ft @15s is still quite a bit more than the "background" summer energy (more like 1-2ft 12-14s), so enjoy this other day of waves possibly still overhead at select spots, before it goes real small for the weekend. Tomorrow should be smaller, but still fun too. Here's a harbor beauty in the dark, check the webcam before going.


North shore
Hanalei
3.1ft @ 6s from 11° (NNE)

Waimea
2.4ft @ 6s from 353° (N)

Mokapu
3.3ft @ 5s from 80° (E)

Very small short period northerly energy coming from the fetch I highlighted on the maps of the 14th and 15th is at the local buoys. The easterly windswell is even shorter period, overall it should be another day of close to flat conditions on the north shore. Might improve a bit as the first component should come up a bit.

Wind map at noon.


Nothing in the North Pacific.


South Pacific has a nice fetch in the Tasman sea and a small/weak SSE one. The one circled in black will be unfortunately blocked by New Zealand.


Morning sky.

Monday, July 15, 2019

Monday 7 15 19 morning call

The big swell didn't disappoint and here's a ton of pictures from yesterday. We'll start with three different breaks of the Lahaina 2 miles miracle. Bruddah Kaleo off the bottom.

Conditions at the harbor for the second day of the contest were maxed out. Thanks to the deep water boat channel the harbor has always the biggest size when it's small, but when it's big, it breaks close to the channel and there's not much to do after the drop. Very challenging for the competitors.

Somehow the better guys were making it work anyway, this is Levi Young.

I see long period waves anywhere.

Kai Lenny.


Kai Penny.


Kai Lenny's girlfriend (Kai Penny can't afford one).

I know that Kai Lenny surfed at least three different spots, but I have the feeling he did much more than that. This one gives you a better idea of the size. He came out just when I paddled out and the clash of the Kai's didn't happen... yet.

This is Maalaea.

Jud Lau.
 
John Patao shot the shorebreak at Makena.
 
Yuri Soledade shredding as usual.

 
This is La Perouse (photo by Dave Lane). I saw some videos too, looked pretty gnarly.
 
 
These are a couple of my waves from the first session which was really good.

 
3am significant buoy readings and discussion
Barbers
4.2ft @ 17s from 190° (S)
 
Lanai
4.6ft @ 17s from 194° (SSW)
 
I got a lot of things wrong with this swell. Below is the hopefully not confusing collage of
1) Lanai graph yesterday
2) Samoa graph till Wednesday
3) Lanai graph today.
After that very graphs I pointed out yesterday, Lanai went up a notch (up to almost 6ft 17s, highlighted part of the last graph on the right), which makes me think that Samoa must have done the same on Thursday. Unfortunately I don't have that piece of graph, so I can't be 100% sure, but that would justify the increase. Samoa was 8ft 18s on Wednesday and that, imo, remains the section of the graph that was similar to Lanai (highlighted sections on the first two graphs on the left). But 8ft 18 at Samoa cannot become 6ft 17s at Lanai. Not 100% sure that the period grows with the travel, but for sure it doesn't go down, it's the size that does so. I believe Samoa must have gone up to 10+ft 15s or something like that on Thursday.

But very few will care about this, what counts is that this morning we have a super solid 4.6ft 17s at Lanai and that means another full day of big waves (although not as big as yesterday) with a slow declining trend.
 
This is a set at the harbor in the dark, check the webcam yourself before going.
 
North shore
Mokapu
3ft @ 5s from 74° (ENE)
 
Another flat day on the north shore.
 
 Wind map at noon.
 
North Pacific has again a small/weak but very close northerly fetch.
 
South Pacific has an elongated fetch in the Tasman Sea and a small one SE of New Zealand. Good, hopefully the flat spell at the end of this week/swell won't last long.
 
Morning sky.