Today I made a new rule.
If the conditions are good enough to keep me five hours in the water, it's automatically a five stars session.
This was my answer to Jeff, when he asked me why I wear a harness when I sail on the longboard: "'Cause I need it to rest my arms so that I can sail longer... You're either tougher than me, or I got more spare time than you, brah"... eheh...
A new NNW swell arrived and kept building all day long. At sunset it was often mast high at lower Kanaha.
I had a hell lot of fun and I was trying to take as many videos as possible with my helmet cam, but unfortunately I ended up taking a bunch of photos instead. Most of them are bad, because taken thinking it was the start of a video... Still practicing with the sequence of keys to push. Can't blame the camera ... it's a simple, cheap and fun toy.
When I got out of the water, the display showed 101. That means 101 between videos and photos. Even though I'm mildly disappointed by the result, I just realized a fact.
OK, a little number of shots were not shot on the wave. Like this one showing the beauty of the new Hot Sails Fire (team rider Jeff Sutherland is backwind slogging on the outside).
But I rode a way bigger number of waves without taking any shots (no time to shoot).
That means that I caught at least a hundred waves today.
Not that it changes the stoke level... I'm so stoked that you guys can't even imagine!
It just gives me a measure... don't forget I'm engineer and as such I got to measure everything (QUOLI, stars, etc...).
A hundred waves... wow, that's something!
I might well be the person that rode more waves in Maui today... I might well be the person that rode more waves in the whole freaking world today!
Hey, I don't care if I was or not. I just feel like I was...
What else can I say after such a gorgeous day?
That tomorrow could be even better...
Even though the NW buoy has dropped from 16 to 12 feet (16 sec. period), the wind is supposed to be a little stronger, so maybe good for the 87l. And even if it's light like today, I'll go longboard sailing again. And if it's no wind, I'll go surfing instead.
Do you understand now why every single day I wake up stoked that I woke up?
Here, let me leave you with what it looked like today. The waves in these photos look a lot smaller than they really were. The West Maui Mountain looks a lot less green that it really was. The ocean and the sky are pretty close, though.
Not enough? I have a few more, but the dropshots site doesn't seem to work right now... Come back later, maybe I'll update this post tomorrow morning.
Just got to add that the last five songs that Radio Rock just played were:
The river - Bruce Springsteen
Watcher of the skies - Genesis
Pinball wizard - The who.
a song from an interesting new italian rock band called PFH.
Live from Rome into my studio in Kuau. Got to love the internet...