Not much to say here, other than:
1) I'm not dead. I'm just surfing my ass off...
2) Every year when the winter is over I feel like committing suicide, but then every year I end up loving the summer. Surfing in the warm water of the always sunny south shore of Maui is a bliss. Also considering that 3 out of 5 of my favorite waves are located there.
3) That last wave I caught today was perfection. And I was so lucky to have a surfer paddling out in front of me in the last section, so that I had to bottom turn around him... man, I never hit the lip so hard on a 9.0!
I got so much stuff to post, but you guys got to be patient: there's waves!
I'm really digging this swell... when did I forecast it? June 21st... excuse me if I know how to do that!
And the best is still to come.