Tuesday, October 14, 2008

how Kazuma shaped my custom surfboard part 2

Here we go, part two of the collection of little videos with Matt Kazuma Kinoshita.

Yesterday (monday) I took the board out at Lowers (first time there on a 6.10).
I was impressed by the fact that catching waves wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but after the first two waves I commented with Michelle that I didn't quite find the sweet spot for the turns yet.

Then I caught a couple more and she saw both, one from the back and one from the front while she was paddling out. I ripped both of them apart (oh come on, let me exaggerate) and she went:"GP, what the hell were you talking about?"
"Well, I guess I must have found the spot!"

Pretty stoked, but it is so much more work. In two hours I caught something like 6 good waves. With the longboard I would have probably caught three times as many. And I was exhausted.
Getting into short board surfing at age 45 is probably going to be one of the most radical things I ever did...

In the afternoon I tested a few standup boards (for the Windsurfing magazine) and that made it for quite an intense day.

Nothing compared to today though, that was absolutely epic wave sailing. Too tired to report about it. Come back tomorrow.


jeff E of the Great White North said...

heh heh i know i will get slammed for this comment but thats why i tried and disliked surfing, alot of paddling around, sitting and waiting.
i bet standup will change that, but i havent tried it.
with windsurfing you just...well go.

cammar said...

we're all different and we like different things (thank god).
I love sitting and waiting when surfing. Sometimes it can be my meditation practice. Other times it's fun to socialize with the other surfers. Good luck at chatting with a friend when sailing...
And you're not just sitting and waiting, you're constantly watching and reading the always moving beautiful ocean. I'll take that over watching tv always.

And when you finally catch a wave, you're riding it in a way purer (mmm... purer or more pure?) way than when windsurfing, since you got nothing in your hands and the board will go where only your body movements will make it go...
(The purest for of surfing from this point of view is body surfing...)
Plus I surf when there's no wind to windsurf, so the two activities are not in competition in my world and I love both.