Tuesday, October 14, 2008
how Kazuma shaped my custom surfboard part 2
Here we go, part two of the collection of little videos with Matt Kazuma Kinoshita.
Yesterday (monday) I took the board out at Lowers (first time there on a 6.10).
I was impressed by the fact that catching waves wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, but after the first two waves I commented with Michelle that I didn't quite find the sweet spot for the turns yet.
Then I caught a couple more and she saw both, one from the back and one from the front while she was paddling out. I ripped both of them apart (oh come on, let me exaggerate) and she went:"GP, what the hell were you talking about?"
"Well, I guess I must have found the spot!"
Pretty stoked, but it is so much more work. In two hours I caught something like 6 good waves. With the longboard I would have probably caught three times as many. And I was exhausted.
Getting into short board surfing at age 45 is probably going to be one of the most radical things I ever did...
In the afternoon I tested a few standup boards (for the Windsurfing magazine) and that made it for quite an intense day.
Nothing compared to today though, that was absolutely epic wave sailing. Too tired to report about it. Come back tomorrow.