What a day!
Three sessions with three different boards in three completely different places on the island.
To start the day, I followed the old rule:"never leave waves to find waves" and scored an uncrowded fun session at Middles.
Right after it, I drove to my favorite wave to find more than 30 people out. I took this photo from quite far on the road and I swear that the set before this one had a wave that was as tall as the spray of this one. It was half the size of the kiave tree and its spray went well over the lava rocks.
This should give you a clue of where I ended up surfing instead...
And if that didn't, this will. I could have checked for you guys if he tatooed his willy too, but I didn't!
Ah, back to "normality"!
This guy is bodysurfing.
This other one is body boarding.
And then some surfing.
The only reason that board didn't snap under that fat lip is that it's a bit sideways. Lucky.
Backward double claim.
This reminds me of that epic "three guys in the barrel" shot. It's somewhere on my blog...
After this, I ended the day with some west side action. I'm definitely not afraid to drive, but it's getting a bit expensive with these gas prices. Oh well, if I'm not going to spend my money to go surf, what else am I going to spend it for?
Thursday morning 6am. The buoys are still up and I'm out of here.