Monday, January 30, 2012

my unsatisfying relationship with Honolua Bay

Honolua bay is for sure the best wave in Maui. Not for me though.

There's two things that makes me not prefere it. The second one clearly is not her fault.
1) when it's good is always crowded.
2) when it's good (and crowded) I'm not confident enough to sit in the middle of the pack (that means in the right spot) taking off on those steep walls on my back hand. I'm an poor backside surfer (because I don't practice enough going right).

But today I surfed it and the place is truly beautiful.
Gas bill was 13 bucks.
Worthy it?

BTW, I didn't catch any of those beautiful waves you see below. The reasons, I just explained.

one guy is gonna get barreled, another one is flying over the lip

PS. Those photos are from sets that I saw before and after my session.
When I was in the water, in two hours there was only one set like that. And I was in the wrong spot.

PPS. This is Browsinho at Jaws today... Holy crap!

PPPS. Just checked the long term weather maps. The whole week looks very good (that means, there's waves). This one is forecasted for midnight of Monday February 6. Seen the close proximity of the very long fetch, I predict that the related swell to be another extra large one. Jaws will go off again. Doesn't look like wind this time.
It's deep winter in Hawaii. I don't want to be anywhere else.


Weasel's Wake said...

I've surfed HB on small summer days with only about 3 or so of us out, clean waist high stuff. But I haven't been back there since the popularity of SUPing (I live in Cal.), I can imagine it being awesome for SUPing on small days.
Is that spot SUP friendly?

Anonymous said...

NO, the BAY is NOT For SUPs!! Stay home!!

cammar said...

I guess I don't have to answer that one... LOL!

WW said...

Alrightythen, wouldn't want to make any "un-natural" waves, geesh, at least I asked.
I saw Robbie and Kai out there on a vid so I thought is might be possible, but don't worry, we've got the rest of the ocean.