There's two things that makes me not prefere it. The second one clearly is not her fault.
1) when it's good is always crowded.
2) when it's good (and crowded) I'm not confident enough to sit in the middle of the pack (that means in the right spot) taking off on those steep walls on my back hand. I'm an poor backside surfer (because I don't practice enough going right).
But today I surfed it and the place is truly beautiful.
Gas bill was 13 bucks.
BTW, I didn't catch any of those beautiful waves you see below. The reasons, I just explained.
|one guy is gonna get barreled, another one is flying over the lip|
PS. Those photos are from sets that I saw before and after my session.
When I was in the water, in two hours there was only one set like that. And I was in the wrong spot.
PPS. This is Browsinho at Jaws today... Holy crap!
PPPS. Just checked the long term weather maps. The whole week looks very good (that means, there's waves). This one is forecasted for midnight of Monday February 6. Seen the close proximity of the very long fetch, I predict that the related swell to be another extra large one. Jaws will go off again. Doesn't look like wind this time.
It's deep winter in Hawaii. I don't want to be anywhere else.