Saturday, August 12, 2017

Indo report. Day 14 - Wednesday August 12th

The Magicseaweed forecast was calling for a trending down 4.5f 15s at 6am, but instead it was bigger than that.
In the Indian Ocean the wave models don't have the luxury of the buoys to adjust their forecast, which, I assume, is based exclusively on the output of the wind models that predict the winds of the storm that generates the swell.
Some sets were solid double overhead, pretty shifty (both inside/outside and left/right) and it sure was challenging to be in the right spot and easy to get caught inside.
Nonetheless, I enjoyed just being out there admiring those big (but sill not menacing) waves and getting my morning workout. I managed to catch a couple of good ones, as the two shots below show.
Towards the end of the session, the offshores improved the conditions greatly and I gave it a 7.5, with occasional excellent waves coming through.

The afternoon session was with a full tide, which is totally under estimated here. As long as it's decent size and the wind is light offshore, I actually prefer it. The most relaxed big waves sessions I can think of.

I used the big board and that was a key factor, since I could have not got into most of the waves I caught with my smaller ones.
Here's a couple of shots from a session that was a solid 8.5, despite (or maybe thanks to) the size trending down to head and two thirds, with the occasional double overhead bombs still coming through.
What a trip this has been so far and it doesn't look like it's gonna slow down for another full week. After which, it's predicted to go small and windy and that's when I'll go back to Bali.
Travelling based on wave forecasts is the way to do it.

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