Thursday, August 03, 2017

Indo report day 5

Da 5 - Thursday August 3rd

The waves were up again (head high with occasional bigger sets), but the morning session had a mix of two swells in the water and the wind was sideoff instead of the usual straight offshore.
In this place's scale, I gave it a 3. In the Hookipa Middles' scale it would be an 8.
The gopro shot below shows a bottom turn in which I hit a bump and the fins skipped a bit on me (I put an arrow to indicate where that happened). That suggested me to try bigger side fins, or at least one bigger side fin on the bottom turn side.
There's no rights on this break, so asymmetrical can make sense. Fortunately I didn't fall and that wave was a 35 seconds ride. Not too shabby for a 3, but a 3 nonetheless.

Session two at sunset was bigger with solid head and a half pushing double when the two swells overlapped. The bigger side fins held a lot better and this was a top turn that got my adrenaline going.

 It was pretty tricky though, not the usual perfect and easy ruler kind of line to read. I blew the drop on a big one and in the moment of the frame below, I had been under water for 11 seconds. 

The board is completely submerged because I'm pulling on the leash to get back up. Which I will eventually in a couple of more seconds, but only to get the lip of the next one right on the head.
The wind was more offshore and, once again, compared to how good it can be, the afternoon was still just a 5.

Dinner was a 10 instead. Grilled fish (I most definitely don't eat vegan anymore here, because I have no choice), salad and an ultra sweet pumpkin soup poured over abundand rice.

I also read an extremely short book called: "Summary, Analysis and Key Takeaways of The Untethered Soul by Michael Singer" by Wiseminds. I bought without looking too much into it, because it was only 99 cents, but it's not even worth that.
I would recommend to Read the original book by Michael Singer instead, that was a 10 and the best book I've ever read. So good that the next book I started is another Singer book called: "The surrender experiment. My journey into life's perfection". I will report my impressions when done reading it.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

magic place !!