Monday, August 21, 2017

Indo report. Day 23 - August 21th

Morning session was clean chest to head high, but more people than waves. First time in 23 days in which I didn't have fun.
Conditions were nice though, I gave it a 7. Once again, the gopro battery for some reason was dead, so no photos.

Afternoon session had moderate wind but straight offshore, so a good 8, as the couple of shots hopefully show.
The trend is for the size to go down and for the wind to increase, so I decided to go back to Bali tomorrow and figure out the rest of my travel plans.
It was an amazing 23 days of surfing my favorite wave in the world.


Dan said...

What a trip! Stoked you are scoring, GP!

we talk board volume a lot when chatting in the shop (or in the water)... and when I read about your 6.10x19.75x2.75x40L I thought, wha?! GP gives me shit if talk about 31ltrs... & he's got a 40l board in Indo??

My question is: would you ever see your self riding a step up with that much volume on Maui? Or is that an Indo-specific board, that you would only use at a perfect reef pass or point - when you don't need to duck dive as much (potentially).
If yes to the Maui question- a Follow up: where on Maui would you ride It when the waves were big enough to call for it? Hookipa? Wai side? Just curious. I know it's a preference thing & that's why I ask.
Always entertaining to get your take.

Smooth travels, Dan

cammar said...

The 40L 6.10 was designed for second trip to Fiji, based on the fact that on my first one I was able to surf big Cloudbreak mostly thanks to the fact that I had a 40L board. I then decided to cut that trip short to only 4 days and I left the board in Indo.
I keep it in that spot, because it keeps a perfect shape also when it's really big and there's no other spots. Well, there are actually, but I like that wave so much that I prefer to still surf there. It allowed me to surf triple overhead waves in 2014.
It's not too big to duck dive and I use it with a thick leash when it's just too much to duck dive it and just let go. It's also built very strong (and as such a bit heavy).
Every time I use it, I think I should get one for Maui too. When it's big at Hookipa, I usually prefer to surf somewhere else smaller, but if I had one (and one day I might ask Matt to build me one, With it, I would surf big Lanes on a clean day. Not the Bay, because it's always too crowded when it's big and beautiful.