The first one was business related. The moment after the "UP!" yell.
The only business I had to do in the second one was to try out a gorgeous 6.0 Sharp Eye Disco Inferno that we lately put in the rental fleet at Hi-Tech. I can tell you it goes through the lip beautifully. Really fun and loose board, I might have to get one.
I made two new friends in that session. Here's brother Chris on a screamer.
Here's the ever so lovely Simonet.
At the end of that session I learned that the Saturday I had lost a friend in a tragic accident. On my way back, this spot looked gorgeous in the sunset light and I had to stop and paddle out and catch one wave for her.
One of my favorite chapters of my favorite book "The untethered soul" ends like this:
Live your life as though you were on the verge of death, because you are.
The sunset was remarkable. Photo by Jimmie Hepp.
6am significant buoy readings
W
2.6ft @ 14s from 173° (S)
SW
2.6ft @ 14s from 181° (S)
SE
2.9ft @ 14s from 170° (S)
Barbers
2.8ft @ 15s from 184° (S)
Lanai
2ft @ 15s from 188° (S)
Day 8 of decent numbers at the buoys. Itx should be smaller (and probably slower) than yesterday, but still in the waist high range with occasional bigger sets. Having a late start, not sure if and what time I'll go. But with waves like this in the Ala Moana webcam, it's hard to resist. Plus I still have the Sharp Eye to test.
North shore
NW101
6.3ft @ 19s from 338° (NNW)
Hanalei
4.4ft @ 20s from 334° (NNW)
Waimea
1.9ft @ 20s from 330° (NW)
Pauwela
3.7ft @ 8s from 356° (N)
2.5ft @ 11s from 354° (N)
1.7ft @ 20s from 320° (NW)
Impressive numbers at the buoy, this swell won't disappoint. The most surprising thing is the direction of 338 at the NNW, I would have expected a more westerly start, based on the analysis of the fetches maps I did yesterday and the day before. I guess the WW3 model knows better than me.
Below is the graph of NW101, Hanalei and Pauwela. Expect a steady rise all day with the biggest size at sunset.
Below is the graph of NW101, Hanalei and Pauwela. Expect a steady rise all day with the biggest size at sunset.
The webcams below show plenty lines at Sunset Beach and some decent white water at Hookipa too already. I'll probably report from there later in the morning (8-9ish).
The usual wind model page is not working today, here's the two models at the bottom of the windguru page. If I look at the weather map, I'd say no chance of sailable wind, but you never know in Maui...
The NW fetch has turned more east, but it still has a section oriented towards us. This swell should last all week.
Hawaii is where the red H is, it slid off the map as I had to move it to show you another massive southerly fetch. I'm not sure that the part closest to the South Pole ice is oriented towards us, but the fetch is impressive anyway. Start thinking about the spots that in your opinion will hold the size on the south shore next week.
Morning sky.
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