Some waves are well over mast high and the show is on.
Bernd is on fire!
Thursday, October 09, 2014
This well overhead set arrived as i was pulling in the parking.
Long period large swells on the rise will provide plenty of surprises like this. It will seem small and doable for most times and then once in a while you'll take a big set on the head.
And while i'm writing all this, another big set comes through. It seems that the swell is already pretty solid.
10 9 14
4am main swell buoy readings:
Waimea: 4.3ft @ 17s from 317° (NW)
Maui north shore: 3.2ft @ 18s from 322° (NW)
As you can see, the big NW swell is filling in. It's going to build throughout all day and peak tomorrow.
My guess is today Hookipa will still be accessible for surfing and windsurfing in the afternoon, but tomorrow is going to be too big for everything. So enjoy it today while you can.
South shore supposed to be on the rise too, but Lanai, Barbers and SE buoys don't show any sign yet.
This is the October 2nd Tasman sea fetch on that generated a huge swell for Fiji a few days later.
Tasman sea swells are always tough to forecast, because you never know how much energy will make it through all those islands on the way.
But judging from the photos of Cloudbreak, I believe we are going to get something.
Buoy readings will be tricky too, because there will be two long period swells hitting them at the same time from different directions.
In other words, I'd check the lahaina cam before getting in the car...
But today it's going to be north shore for me, so check back in a few minutes for a photo and report from Hookipa.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
PS. Note on the NW swell directions. Now that the NW buoy is offline, it's impossible to know exactly what direction the swell is coming from. When it hits the Waimea buoy, I believe that the swell has already been "bent" by Kauai and the Oahu reefs. In other words, it could easily be more west than 317, but we'll never know.
As the already "bent" swell approaches Maui, it will bend even more because of Molokai and the NW tip of Maui and that's why we see 322 on the maui buoy. Unfortunately, every time a swell is refracted (that might be a more technical word, but I think bent is a lot clearer for the most), it loses some energy both in terms of size and consistency. Which, in case o a large swell like this, can be a good thing!
Waimea: 4.3ft @ 17s from 317° (NW)
Maui north shore: 3.2ft @ 18s from 322° (NW)
As you can see, the big NW swell is filling in. It's going to build throughout all day and peak tomorrow.
My guess is today Hookipa will still be accessible for surfing and windsurfing in the afternoon, but tomorrow is going to be too big for everything. So enjoy it today while you can.
South shore supposed to be on the rise too, but Lanai, Barbers and SE buoys don't show any sign yet.
This is the October 2nd Tasman sea fetch on that generated a huge swell for Fiji a few days later.
Tasman sea swells are always tough to forecast, because you never know how much energy will make it through all those islands on the way.
But judging from the photos of Cloudbreak, I believe we are going to get something.
Buoy readings will be tricky too, because there will be two long period swells hitting them at the same time from different directions.
In other words, I'd check the lahaina cam before getting in the car...
But today it's going to be north shore for me, so check back in a few minutes for a photo and report from Hookipa.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
PS. Note on the NW swell directions. Now that the NW buoy is offline, it's impossible to know exactly what direction the swell is coming from. When it hits the Waimea buoy, I believe that the swell has already been "bent" by Kauai and the Oahu reefs. In other words, it could easily be more west than 317, but we'll never know.
As the already "bent" swell approaches Maui, it will bend even more because of Molokai and the NW tip of Maui and that's why we see 322 on the maui buoy. Unfortunately, every time a swell is refracted (that might be a more technical word, but I think bent is a lot clearer for the most), it loses some energy both in terms of size and consistency. Which, in case o a large swell like this, can be a good thing!
Wednesday, October 08, 2014
10 8 14
Maui north shore buoy 4am reading:
4.1ft @ 10s from 338° (NNW)
4.1ft @ 10s from 338° (NNW)
1ft @ 4s from 90° (E)
Lanai:
1.6ft @13s from 194° (SSW)
As for today, as the buoy shows, there's still waves and glassy early morning conditions, so I better go surf.
For the afternoon, light trades 10-15 are forecasted.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
Lanai:
1.6ft @13s from 194° (SSW)
0.9ft @ 16s from 214° (SW)
1.6ft @ 8s from 200° (SSW)
The weather map today shows a massive winter caliber fetch with hurricane force winds. That'll send a swell that Surfline is calling at 10f 15s in the night of Friday. Still 9f 14s all day Saturday.
I'm no Jaws expert, but I'm pretty sure something will be breaking if those sizes will be confirmed.
Trade winds about to come back, so both those big days will see some wave sailing action at Kanaha for sure.
1.6ft @ 8s from 200° (SSW)
The weather map today shows a massive winter caliber fetch with hurricane force winds. That'll send a swell that Surfline is calling at 10f 15s in the night of Friday. Still 9f 14s all day Saturday.
I'm no Jaws expert, but I'm pretty sure something will be breaking if those sizes will be confirmed.
Trade winds about to come back, so both those big days will see some wave sailing action at Kanaha for sure.
As for today, as the buoy shows, there's still waves and glassy early morning conditions, so I better go surf.
For the afternoon, light trades 10-15 are forecasted.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
Tuesday, October 07, 2014
10 7 14
I can't even remember why I called this blog Mauisurfreport, but after 10 years I might actually start doing just that on it.
The plan is to do a quick post (like this) from home and then shortly after another one with a photo of the actual conditions at Hookipa.
I'll do a test week, I appreciate feedbacks.
Above is what I call the wind map of this morning. You can notice a big straight NNW fetch on the upper left corner. Better directed for the Marshall Islands, it will still send up a big swell Friday/Saturday.
But what I really like is the southerly flow over the island that will provide offshore very clean conditions for the north shore surfers.
That is about to change and the next few days look really good for windsurfing and kitesurfing on waves.
4am buoy readings:
maui north shore:
2.8ft @ 13s from 347° (NNW)
2.6ft @ 9s from 30° (NNE)
2.3ft @ 11s from 333° (NNW)
Lanai:
Lanai:
1.6ft @ 10s from 261° (W)
1.7ft @ 14s from 200° (SSW)
1.1ft @ 8s from 195° (SSW)
Aloha.
Aloha.
Sunday, November 24, 2013
Kauli's new video
Here's a video of Kauli with his new 3 batten KS3 sail.
I was lucky enough to use a 4.3 KS3 for 6-7 sessions.
The sail is incredibly stable in all conditions. It's also very, very powerful and it pretty much disappears when riding a wave down the line.
I personally prefer flatter sails like the Firelight (a bit less power), but I live in Maui and I like to ride waves with a small sail in very light wind conditions, hoping to feel as little power as possible in the sail. In other words, not exactly what most of the wave sailors are looking for when they go sail.
Give them a try if you like a sail that pulls a lot and is light and maneuverable.
Kauli's KS3 Evolution from Hot Sails Maui on Vimeo.
I was lucky enough to use a 4.3 KS3 for 6-7 sessions.
The sail is incredibly stable in all conditions. It's also very, very powerful and it pretty much disappears when riding a wave down the line.
I personally prefer flatter sails like the Firelight (a bit less power), but I live in Maui and I like to ride waves with a small sail in very light wind conditions, hoping to feel as little power as possible in the sail. In other words, not exactly what most of the wave sailors are looking for when they go sail.
Give them a try if you like a sail that pulls a lot and is light and maneuverable.
Kauli's KS3 Evolution from Hot Sails Maui on Vimeo.
Saturday, August 17, 2013
Indo trip 2013
I'm in Italy, watching the Tahiti contest and I got time to do this in another window.
Just like the Peru trip, here's the collection of the Facebook posts I did during the Indo trip, which happened May (before Peru).
Enjoy.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Post 1, May 6.
That is true, but i can't believe it actually worked! They wanted to charge me $200 for the boards but thanks to that piece of paper with my notes from a phone call, i did not get charged a penny from honolulu to bali!
Growing up in Napoli did have some good aspects...
Fortunately, I won't need to do that next year: I left those two boards at my hotel in Bali. They're gonna live there. Because I'm going to Indo each single remaining summer of my life.
Post 2, May 7
Post 3, May 7
Post 4, May 8
Wi-Fi is back on, a few more shots before going to bed
Post 5, May 9
Gp is in the barrel but he's not gonna come out of it.
Not gonna claim it, but the photo is good enough to post it.
This morning i surfed 2.5h, the first of which by myself. Then two other guys came out, but they sat too deep and got often caught inside by the big sets. I was at the end of the reef and caught 15 to 20 BEAUTIFUL waves.
top turn decently close to the pocket. If i could only transplant my front arm with an alive one that would help.
air bubbles beard on water pressure compressed face.
i'll leave the guesses to you guys.
Post 6, May 11
Mid day high tide time killing
both me and the dog
Post 7, May 14
The surfer and the surfboard: a fairy tale by Gp.
Once upon a time there was a young surfer (oh come on, it's a fairy tale) who owned a beautiful surfboard.
One day he was riding it on a beautiful wave
At the same time there was a photographer taking photos of the same wave from the reef
Unfortunately, after that wave the surfer got stuck inside and a big mean set snapped his board in two pieces
But the photographer was also a magician and with a touch of his magic wound he put the board back together.
The surfer and his board lived happily together thereafter
Post 8, May 15
Couple of shots from the inside of the jakarta hotel... i was expecting Arthur Fonzarelli to show up anytime
Post 9, May 16
Looks like I moved from one perfect wave to another. I'm gonna call this one Steve's spot. The internet connection is super slow, so don't worry if you don't see too many updates from me... I'm just fine, but thanks for caring!
Post 10, May 16
the surf camp. 20 bucks a day, three (good) meals included.
the tough life at the surf camp: hanging out on the observation tower checking out the waves (and facebook), getting ready for session
can't see much 'cause now it's against the sun, but the waves are still pumping. That was a big set that caught everybody inside...
Allright, time to go! Damn, 10 days in Indo and i haven't got a massage yet! Uff, that's another solid head and a half set just now...
Post 11, May 18
It took 20 hours, but I manage to upload the video of that 50 seconds wave: http://www.youtube.com/
Post 12 , May 20
Post 13, May 23
Four shots from this morning:
facial expression shows justified apprehension
facial expression shows justified pain
good surfer shows how it's done
shaving action around the cut.
Swell is still building, I'm done surfing this spot. Tomorrow morning i'll start the journey towards Bali and hopefully i'll be able to surf two more days there... if the waves are not too big.
Life is great.
Well, I did go to Bali and I did surf a couple of more days and I also did a couple of more posts on Facebook, but I can't find them anywhere.
One more proof that FB sucks as a place where to permanently write your online diary. Well, it's not designed for that.
For example, this is a wave I rode at Balangan, the day before leaving.
Final feedback of my 2013 Indo trip: just awesome.
I surfed a new spot (which is my goal each time I go to Indo) and I scored great waves pretty much every single day.
That section of the ocean between Cape of Good Hope and west Australia brews storms with a very reliable consistency in the southern hemisphere winter time.
Indo is placed perfectly and at the right latitude to receive the related swells.
Water is warm, winds are mostly offshore, it's cheap... how can you beat it as a surfing destination, really?
But I did like the two surf trips thing I did this year and I might do it again next year... as I said, the 50th year celebration was just an excuse. I didn't really need it and I won't need it next year...
I heard very good things about Nicaragua and I might try to combine it with the September family Italy trip.
But right now, I'm just focused on the fact that soon I'll be back to Maui and soon the north shore will come back to life. No need for surf trips in winter time in Maui. I love it too much to leave.
Just like the Peru trip, here's the collection of the Facebook posts I did during the Indo trip, which happened May (before Peru).
Enjoy.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Post 1, May 6.
That is true, but i can't believe it actually worked! They wanted to charge me $200 for the boards but thanks to that piece of paper with my notes from a phone call, i did not get charged a penny from honolulu to bali!
Growing up in Napoli did have some good aspects...
Fortunately, I won't need to do that next year: I left those two boards at my hotel in Bali. They're gonna live there. Because I'm going to Indo each single remaining summer of my life.
Post 2, May 7
one of the many magic aspects of surfing. Never met this guy before, probably never going to meet him again, but we shared a sweet dawn patrol session at a Kuta's "second reef" and for 1.5 hours we were best surfing buddies...
Just a quick... update for those who may concern.
I landed in Bali at midnight yesterday. Went to my usual shit hole hotel. Rented a bike at 5.30am. Went surfing at from 6 to 7.30. Had breakfast, changed all the money, bought local sim cards and grabbed a taxi for the airport at 9.15.
Got on a plane to another island at 11.
Next possible surf opportunity in 24h. Forecast for the weekend keeps looking very solid.
Now I'm uploading this (or trying to) from an hotel with no power (hence no Wi-Fi). I'm running on battery and a cell phone modem. It's so slow (and hot), that I'm going for a cold bintang right after this, so you guys will have to wait for more photos and updates.
Just a quick... update for those who may concern.
I landed in Bali at midnight yesterday. Went to my usual shit hole hotel. Rented a bike at 5.30am. Went surfing at from 6 to 7.30. Had breakfast, changed all the money, bought local sim cards and grabbed a taxi for the airport at 9.15.
Got on a plane to another island at 11.
Next possible surf opportunity in 24h. Forecast for the weekend keeps looking very solid.
Now I'm uploading this (or trying to) from an hotel with no power (hence no Wi-Fi). I'm running on battery and a cell phone modem. It's so slow (and hot), that I'm going for a cold bintang right after this, so you guys will have to wait for more photos and updates.
Post 3, May 7
Once again this wave in Kuta is called "second reef". It's between Kuta reef and Middles and I never surfed it before.
The guy on the boat said:"it's not a high performance wave like the other reefs, but there's usually a lot less people......"
I said:"that's exactly what I need after 10 + 7 hours of plane and 6h time difference..."
Plus, after 4 days of sup surfing at thousand peaks, for me that's as high performance as I can handle!!!
It was a really fun session. A mellow welcome to the magic smoothness of Indonesian waves.
I absolutely love this country!
See you guys, Bintang is now calling me loud.
The guy on the boat said:"it's not a high performance wave like the other reefs, but there's usually a lot less people......"
I said:"that's exactly what I need after 10 + 7 hours of plane and 6h time difference..."
Plus, after 4 days of sup surfing at thousand peaks, for me that's as high performance as I can handle!!!
It was a really fun session. A mellow welcome to the magic smoothness of Indonesian waves.
I absolutely love this country!
See you guys, Bintang is now calling me loud.
Post 4, May 8
Wi-Fi is back on, a few more shots before going to bed
Post 5, May 9
Gp is in the barrel but he's not gonna come out of it.
Not gonna claim it, but the photo is good enough to post it.
This morning i surfed 2.5h, the first of which by myself. Then two other guys came out, but they sat too deep and got often caught inside by the big sets. I was at the end of the reef and caught 15 to 20 BEAUTIFUL waves.
top turn decently close to the pocket. If i could only transplant my front arm with an alive one that would help.
air bubbles beard on water pressure compressed face.
i'll leave the guesses to you guys.
Post 6, May 11
Mid day high tide time killing
both me and the dog
Post 7, May 14
The surfer and the surfboard: a fairy tale by Gp.
Once upon a time there was a young surfer (oh come on, it's a fairy tale) who owned a beautiful surfboard.
One day he was riding it on a beautiful wave
At the same time there was a photographer taking photos of the same wave from the reef
Unfortunately, after that wave the surfer got stuck inside and a big mean set snapped his board in two pieces
But the photographer was also a magician and with a touch of his magic wound he put the board back together.
The surfer and his board lived happily together thereafter
Post 8, May 15
Couple of shots from the inside of the jakarta hotel... i was expecting Arthur Fonzarelli to show up anytime
Post 9, May 16
Looks like I moved from one perfect wave to another. I'm gonna call this one Steve's spot. The internet connection is super slow, so don't worry if you don't see too many updates from me... I'm just fine, but thanks for caring!
Post 10, May 16
the surf camp. 20 bucks a day, three (good) meals included.
the tough life at the surf camp: hanging out on the observation tower checking out the waves (and facebook), getting ready for session
can't see much 'cause now it's against the sun, but the waves are still pumping. That was a big set that caught everybody inside...
Allright, time to go! Damn, 10 days in Indo and i haven't got a massage yet! Uff, that's another solid head and a half set just now...
Post 11, May 18
It took 20 hours, but I manage to upload the video of that 50 seconds wave: http://www.youtube.com/
I didn't do anything special on it, I just wanted to make it all the way to the end.
Also, here's a 4 photos sequence of yet another missed barrel opportunity. If I grabbed the wall at the take off, I would have stayed high enough and got covered... but that's not exactly the easiest thing to do on an overhead steep drop. Not with my skill, at least.
But hey, at least I made the drop!
Post 12 , May 20
Yesterday the waves were small and four of us went for a bike ride. We also rented a boat for a trip to a small island. We found a small right that had a perfect shape. It was a very pleasant and relaxing experience which i totally needed after having surfed for 6 hours each of the previous two days. Unfortunately, the day turned into a bit of a nightmare because as soon as we got back on land, we... got hit by some heavy rain and the bike ride back to the camp took forever. The last hour was in the dark and i don't remember doing something as dangerous in a really long time. I'm just really glad everything went ok. Half of the injuries i see on surfers here are caused by motorcycle wipeouts and now i know why...
Post 13, May 23
Four shots from this morning:
facial expression shows justified apprehension
facial expression shows justified pain
good surfer shows how it's done
shaving action around the cut.
Swell is still building, I'm done surfing this spot. Tomorrow morning i'll start the journey towards Bali and hopefully i'll be able to surf two more days there... if the waves are not too big.
Life is great.
Well, I did go to Bali and I did surf a couple of more days and I also did a couple of more posts on Facebook, but I can't find them anywhere.
One more proof that FB sucks as a place where to permanently write your online diary. Well, it's not designed for that.
For example, this is a wave I rode at Balangan, the day before leaving.
Final feedback of my 2013 Indo trip: just awesome.
I surfed a new spot (which is my goal each time I go to Indo) and I scored great waves pretty much every single day.
That section of the ocean between Cape of Good Hope and west Australia brews storms with a very reliable consistency in the southern hemisphere winter time.
Indo is placed perfectly and at the right latitude to receive the related swells.
Water is warm, winds are mostly offshore, it's cheap... how can you beat it as a surfing destination, really?
But I did like the two surf trips thing I did this year and I might do it again next year... as I said, the 50th year celebration was just an excuse. I didn't really need it and I won't need it next year...
I heard very good things about Nicaragua and I might try to combine it with the September family Italy trip.
But right now, I'm just focused on the fact that soon I'll be back to Maui and soon the north shore will come back to life. No need for surf trips in winter time in Maui. I love it too much to leave.
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