Wednesday, November 29, 2006

Big and messy or small and glassy?

Boy, it's big and messy out there tonight.

How do I know? No, no need for buoys this time... I can hear it!
I love living a hundred yards from the ocean. If there's a big swell, I can hear it in bed.
And if it's a clean one, I can hear the waves in the sets and count the seconds between them. Every second after 10 gets me more excited. Occasionally, around 16 I have an erection. At 20, an orgasm.

Nothing like that tonight. It's a loud continuos white noise. And that means that it's messy and onshore. Maybe tomorrow could be a west side kind of day.
Here's a post of a few months ago. I think it was the first video post of this blog. I want to link it again hoping it will bring good luck...

This morning, instead it was small and incredibly glassy. I just love glassy waves, even more than light offshore. And they're so rare in Maui that it looks like another place. This morning it was like California, with a way warmer and cleaner water...
I can't believe how many people I saw getting tiny little barrels (not me, of course). So the question is: do glassy waves make the barrel more the waves with some texture on it?
I don't know. But I know the answer to the question in the title... small and glassy!

This guy is coming out of one.


See how glassy it was? Not for long though. That is the approaching windline of the onshore wind that messed everything up. Thank god I had surfed already... good timing!

5 comments:

meesh said...

So you are a 20 second man is what you are saying?! Luckily the sets are continuous!
I can barely sleep when I hear these swells from my place, but I tend to be waxing up my board not the wood, may have to change my focus. I slept well last night, so I also agree it must be messy, but gotta go look - you never really know till you get there.

cammar said...

Hey, 20 seconds is better than 14!

I'll see at the beach, even though I really think it's gonna suck.
Hey, some little waves on the south shore with high tide around noon. Sounds like canoe wave rideing to me...

meesh said...

How was it?

HOHO was fun this morning, but the evening session was not. I got worked and a wave in!

cammar said...

Meesh, you're gonna hate me when you'll see the waves at H bay...
I forgot to call you. I hope you were busy working so that it would have been to late anyway...
And maybe you would have got worked and not even a wave in!

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