I saw this movie the first time a couple of months ago.
It hit me hard.
Then I read the book.
Yesterday I saw the movie again... it hit me even harder.
And this morning I'm even happier than usual to just be alive and I'm going to enjoy even more the surf session I'm about to have.
Merci Jean-Do for your incredible effort and your extraordinary spirit. I'll ride a few waves for you.
PS. Thanks to the MACC for bringing non-mainstream non-hollywood movies to Maui.