It feels a bit awkward to report about something I did a month ago (not enough bandwidth on the road), but better never than late.
I'm now back in Maui after my awesome month long trip to Cali and Europe, so you guys can finally stop panicking.
Lowers usually has the best waves and as such it gets crowded.
But look at the glassiness.
Nice turns on beautiful lefts.
I like the way they called it.
Kelly Slater. Notice not only the spray he's throwing in the top turn, but also the one he threw in the bottom turn. I'd be happy to throw as much spray in my wave sailing bottom turns...
Kelly goes left. Always perfectly centered with his body on the board.
A California beauty. IMO she would be prettier without eye makeup, but I'm weird.
Next two is Jadson Andre.
The photographers enjoy a moment of no action.
A California body.
Best surfer in the world and bloody good looking.
A California boob.
This fellow opened that clam by dropping it from a ten feet height and now is about to enjoy his meal.
Slater sported a NBA style head band.
Slater vs Wright was a great heat too.
A California bum.
These guys are waiting for the last heat of the day to end and take over the spot again.
As soon as the horn blew, it was a paddle race and they were surfing on top of each other.
Another California bum.
Cute little surfer dude.
A super fun to watch expression session took place before the final.
Kelly drops in his first wave.
Hits the lip on his first top turn.
Great shadow on his second top turn.
A proper cut back was his third turn.
And this is my favorite photo of the whole post. Look at that body position. I particularly love arms and hands. Didn't take any more photos after this first wave, because I wanted to enjoy the show. He got barreled and sealed the deal with a high 9. No hope for Durbidge.
With the Trestles win, Slater went back to the top of the rankings.
In the meantime, there have been two more contests: France and Portugal. He was second and first and he's definitely looking very strong for his 10th world title.
What a legend!
Three swimmers were towing the buoys back to shore and they took some serious sets on the head.
My camera has a custom ladies-autofocus setting (my patent).
This particular setup made it go back and forth like crazy.
Free surfing at Uppers.
Carmelo motel was cheap, definitely not luxurious, but at walking distance (which at Trestles always means a 20-30 minutes walk).
The Pacific Surfliner.
The next photos are classic California surfing beach scenes.
I got back in Maui yesterday and by 2pm today I already managed to spend four hours in the water (two surfing and two windsurfing). Small windswell waves, nothing epic, but warm and sunny!
Alex took this photo. Thanks a lot!
It should stay like this for a quite a few more days. Fortunately, look at that proper fetch modeled to happen on Oct 18.
The Aleutians block it a bit, but nonetheless, after 3-4 days, the waves will be fairly big. I will ride them.
Aaahhh... feels good to be back!