Beautiful sunrise conditions. I had the whole place unusually to myself for half an hour before a few other surfers showed up, but only way down the line from me.
That means that, for an hour and a half I kept doing a proper wave selection in a constant priority situation, unconditioned by anybody else. Which, for me, makes the whole surfing experience much more enjoyable.
The waves were a fun head and a half size and because it was 3/4 of tide and no offshores, I only gave it a 7. With a 1/4 tide and light offshore it would have been a 9+.
I rode 6-7 waves without getting caught inside and when that eventually happened, I called the session off at only 8am, since the tide was getting close to full.
The gopro shots below show the glorious morning light.
As predicted by my interpolation of the Surfline and Magicseaweed forecasts (the first usually gets the timing right, but not the size and viceversa), the waves got much bigger in the afternoon: double overhead plus.
I've surfed this place triple overhead in 2014 (this is the only place where I would possible want to do such a thing), but everthing was absolutely perfect that day.
Instead, session two had sideoff wind instead of offshore and the period (18+ seconds) was maybe a bit too high for the direction: the waves were really hard to catch and very fast.
I should have busted the floaty 6.10 that I store over here, but I insisted on the thin 6.2 Pang that I took with me this year and that I'm absolutely loving. The result was a humiliating zero waves in one hour. I gave the conditions a 4 and my performance a 0.
Obviously, I have no gopro shots to show, but a guest of the camp took this shot below. That's one of the best, most makeable waves of the day.
Tomorrow still plenty size, possibly bigger. I'll have to come up with an alternative spot, otherwise I'm going to take a day of rest and maybe take some pics.