Totally epic day.
At 6am the waves were still too big for my taste and I happily went back to sleep. But the swell must have peaked during the night, since when I checked them again later in the morning, they looked a little more manageable.
So I dusted off the 6.10 and hit the boat with the intention to go have a closer look. When we got on the reef, the spectacle was sublime. The wind was light, the texture was perfect, the waves were the softest peeling double overhead you can imagine and there were only two guys out.
This shot screams 10 and that's what the conditions were.
After lunch I went back out with a thin 6.3 Merrick Semi-pro to change it up and obviosly I struggled a bit more, but had a blast nonetheless. The low tide made the waves a lot heavier and there were more people in the lineup, hence "just" a 9.
That lip is not going to be nice to him.
Wonder how that must have looked from his perspective? Something like this. That lip wasn't nice to me either.
I wouldn't be surprised nor disappointed if this would end up being the best day of the trip, but I really hope in a perfect smaller day at the deeper take off spot. We shall see, tomorrow is another day in this wave filled paradise.