The waves at Hookipa were still in the head and a half to DOH range (NEVER on this blog you will see me calling the sizes with the non sense Hawaiian scale) and even though there were a lot of different sizes and shapes, if you caught the right one (or should I say the left one), it was just perfect really.
This is a photo of the spot I surfed taken probably 3 hours after I surfed it. Imagine that completely glassy. Most times it does pay to go early in Maui. Thanks Jimmie Hepp for always being out there!
Then some light trades picked up and some kiters and windsurfers showed up. To me Hookipa looked way too dangerous (I did see photo of people on the rocks) and I went sailing at Lowers which unfortunately was quite bad.
I did see a spot that was totally firing, but because of my prejudice about it, I didn't go there. I shall get over that.
Today's 5am main swell buoy readings:
NW
5.7ft @ 11s from 283° (WNW)
Waimea
4.1ft @ 13s from 313° (NW)
Pauwela (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
4.7ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)
4.3ft @ 9s from 45° (NE)
Lanai
Lanai
3.1ft @ 13s from 272° (W)
Below is the graph of the Pauwela buoy. As you can see now it really is going down (I almost wrote "finally"!), but yesterday it actually stayed pretty steady all day. Still DOH sets at sunset and a bunch of good surfers out that put up a great show! But today it's gonna be more in head to occasionally OH high range.
This morning I am definitely late, but do expect a photo/report later.
Below is the weather map, where you can see the strong low that will contribute to generate the monster swell on Wednesday.
This is the same map with a little more intuitive wind visualization. Big strong fetch WNW of us. This is going to be one of the most interesting swells to figure out where to go surf.
I also put an arrow to show the ESE circulation around the islands. When it's like that, usually it means clean morning surf and possible sideoff wind in the afternoon if the sun helps. Too early to say, I work at 2 today, so I can post updates from the beach.
Below is the graph of the Pauwela buoy. As you can see now it really is going down (I almost wrote "finally"!), but yesterday it actually stayed pretty steady all day. Still DOH sets at sunset and a bunch of good surfers out that put up a great show! But today it's gonna be more in head to occasionally OH high range.
This morning I am definitely late, but do expect a photo/report later.
Below is the weather map, where you can see the strong low that will contribute to generate the monster swell on Wednesday.
This is the same map with a little more intuitive wind visualization. Big strong fetch WNW of us. This is going to be one of the most interesting swells to figure out where to go surf.
I also put an arrow to show the ESE circulation around the islands. When it's like that, usually it means clean morning surf and possible sideoff wind in the afternoon if the sun helps. Too early to say, I work at 2 today, so I can post updates from the beach.
Have fun in the sun everyone!
PS. All the sources for this post are permanently linked in the
links section on the right of this blog.
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