12 12 18 morning call

A shortboard and a windsurf session for me yesterday. I took some shots after my surfing session, but here's a spectacular shot by Onemorefoto at the Bay first. Caption was: Dusty Payne locked in a blue world of oh YES!


Here's a couple of shots I took after my session. Fun stuff.

Due to the gusty wind, I ranked my windsurfing session a 3. Later I saw this picture of a facebook friend of a friend that lamented the greyness of winter in Russia and I changed my attitude. It still remained a 3, but I sure appreciated it more.


As you can see from this shot by Jimmie Hepp from this gallery showing yesterday's action at Hookipa, in fact, the colors were absolutely stunning.


4am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys.

North shore
NW001
6.7ft @ 16s from 346° (NNW)

6.5ft @ 9s from 96° (E)

Hanalei
7.1ft @ 9s from 62° (ENE)

5.8ft @ 16s from 321° (NW)

Waimea
5.7ft @ 8s from 39° (NE)

4ft @ 18s from 323° (NW)

1.8ft @ 11s from 339° (NNW)

Pauwela
8.4ft @ 9s from 70° (ENE)

3.1ft @ 11s from 7° (N)

2.9ft @ 18s from 320° (NW)

2.7ft @ 4s from 77° (ENE)

 

New long period NW swell is on the rise, while the old northerly 11s energy is on its way down. But the most predominant energy is the windswell one at 8.4f 9s from 70 degrees. Below is the collage of the graph of NW and Pauwela buoys together with the Surfline offshore swells forecast. I drew a red dotted line to show the way the swell should pick up all day in Maui. The forecast calls for 4f 16s at sunset, but it could actually go a bit higher than that, seen the numbers at the upstream buoys. Notice also (red arrow) how the direction at the NW buoy veered more to the N after it started registering the energy. Not sure that will happen here too (the three local buoys show around 320-323 while NW is at 346), it might be just a fluke due to the interaction with the easterly windswell or a mistake in the Surfline algorithm.

 

 

As you can see from the collage of the fetch maps of Dec 8,9,10 and 11, in fact, the fetch did not have much of a north component to it, so I think the direction at the NW buoy is not correct. Here's Pat Caldwell description of the fetch's evolution: A low pressure gained hurricane-force in the Kamchatka corner 10/8 with seas growing to 40 feet beyond 2400 nm of Hawaii. The system raced eastward along the Aleutians as winds weakened to gales once east of the Date Line late 12/9. The system is moving past Hawaii to the north 12/10 and should be out of the Hawaii swell window late 12/10.



 

 

 Wind map at noon seems to suggest a little less wind than the past couple of days.

North shore has a narrow NW fetch and a building (getting longer) windswell fetch.

A weak S fetch in the South Pacific.

Morning sky.