Only a very good surfer like Rubens can afford to dry his eyes mid turn.
This guys is going to need the same after this full body hit.
The one on the left is the setup I tested, the one on the right is what I ride. The Axis foil has an amazing glide (it keeps going forever, probably great for downwinders), but I like the maneuverability and quicker response of my lighter full carbon Gofoil Iwa (with reduced size tail wing) better. That is something I experienced with all the aluminum mast/fuselage foils I tried so far. The heavier weight gives them a nice flow and momentum, but they're not as quick to redirect.
3am significant buoy readings
South shore
Barbers
0.6ft @ 16s from 200° (SSW)
Barbers feels a sliver of long period SSW energy. Pat Caldwell put 1f 15s in his table for Sunday/Monday, I wonder if this is what he describes here:
Gales well S to SE of New Zealand 12/15-18 could make for similar tiny to small breakers for select spots starting 12/23 from 180-200 degrees.
Below is the collage of the maps of Dec 15, 16 and 17. Nothing to be particularly excited about, imo.
North shore
NW001
6.2ft @ 10s from 358° (N)
Hanalei
5.5ft @ 11s from 336° (NNW)
3.9ft @ 9s from 351° (N)
3.4ft @ 7s from 33° (NE)
Waimea
5.6ft @ 11s from 339° (NNW)
4.3ft @ 10s from 339° (NNW)
Pauwela
5.5ft @ 12s from 332° (NNW)
3.6ft @ 9s from 355° (N)
3.0ft @ 8s from 27° (NNE)
2.0ft @ 6s from 42° (NE)
Below is Pauwela's graph that shows a downward trend. This is still the Tuesday swell (remember those dreamy waves?) that is now steadily fading, but still providing fun size waves today.
This morning the wind model has not been updated yet, so this is the map at noon of yesterday's run.
Nothing of relevance from the south.
Morning sky.
I know this is a surf related blog, but this morning the daily video I receive from Doc Greger's website https://nutritionfacts.org is too good not to share. And it doesn't even touch the topic of how harmful animal proteins are for humans, but that's easily covered if you do a search on his website.
With few sporadic exceptions (like when I get invited to dinners/parties), I've been eating exclusively plant based food (as whole as I can find it) for years. I'm 56, never been healthier and do multiple sessions in the water every day. Evidently, it's good for me. And I don't think I'm that special of a human being...
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