Thursday, June 02, 2016

12.30pm lahaina knee to waist with occasional bigger sets. Light onshore, but still fun.

9am lahaina knee to waist high and glassy. Peaks was light onshore and not that good. Hookipa had waist high windswell, but seriously short period.

6 2 16 morning call

The sun was out yesterday on the Lahaina side and that allowed the usual mid morning onshores to pick up and deteriorate the conditions for my session number 2.
My early morning session wasn't that good either (very slow and tons of people). Fortunately I had my fix in a late afternoon one at Thousand Peaks, where instead it was blowing offshore like this picture shows.


Not much on the south pacific map of 7 days ago (May 26), most of the energy in the water today will still come from the fetches highlighted in the May 25 map that I posted yesterday and it will have a downward trend.


4am significant buoy readings:
Pauwela
3.9ft @ 7s from 33° (NE)
 
Lanai
2.2ft @ 13s from 189° (S)

Barbers
2.3ft @ 13s from 179° (S)


Watch out the tides this weekend: the new moon tides in June are some of the most extreme. Below are the Lahaina tides, check those lows in the morning, specially the sunday one.


Funky wind at noon, as it has been the case for a few days now. The pattern of no regular direction trades looks like is going to continue.


North Pacific showing a moderate NNW fetch. Nothing to be too excited about.


South Pacific starting to show some strong storm activity, this one may be the first solid south swell of the season. Too bad I'm gonna miss it, but I'm sure not going to complain about it.
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There you go, I'm not leaving in the dark this morning (want to surf after the low tide), so here's your two webcams to make a comparison. Hookipa on the left offers nothing, Lahaina on the right will be small, but at least there's something. Check it yourself before going, the links are in the webcam links section of this blog (on the right, scroll down).


PS. I was asked how to watch that heat I mentioned yesterday between Bethany Hamilton and Tyler Wright, here's the link to the summary video. Love those. A bit hard to keep track of who's leading and with what scores (if they would only leave both two top scoring waves always up in the score section in the upper left corner, that would help a lot!) and a bit hard to navigate through the videos pages without finding out who won the heat or the contest (those stupid Congratulations XXX banners), but my brain has learned to filter them out.

Wednesday, June 01, 2016

9am lahaina side all confirmed with the odd bigger set. Just really slow and crowded everywhere. Peaks light onshore, not that good

7am lahaina side is inconsistent knee to waist high. Seems like less energy than yesterday, but I did see plenty long period lines. Maybe the extreme 6.40am low tide is not helping them grow. Bit of a wind line just west of town.
Will be more precise after my session.

6 1 16 morning call

Fantastic day of surfing on the Lahaina side. Including a surf lesson, I spent another 6 hours in the water. Waking up early paid off. Here's the reward. Looks like Tahiti.


And here's the reward for the others in the lineup.




Thanks to an overcast sky from mid morning on, the local winds were absent and there were little corners of perfection everywhere.


Also my student scored perfect conditions.


Yesterday's and today's SSE swells were generated by the fetch east of New Zealand between May 22 and 23. Below is the 23rd map and I didn't even circle the fetch because it was mostly oriented towards the Americas. We'll still get some angular spreading of it (1.6ft @ 13s from 185°).
Today we'll also get the swell generated by the fetch on the map west of New Zealand in the Tasman sea (25f seas locally). The Lanai buoy shows that beautifully with a brand new reading of 2ft @ 15s from 199°.


4am significant buoy readings.
Pauwela
4.5ft @ 7s from 20° (NNE)
2.3ft @ 10s from 348° (NNW)

Lanai
2ft @ 15s from 199° (SSW)
1.6ft @ 13s from 185° (S)

Barbers
3ft @ 14s from 174° (S)

I barely look at what Pauwela reads these days, it's evident for me that the Lahaina side offers better surfing conditions. And with two swells overlapping, hopefully today will be also a bit more consistent.

North Pacific shows a windswell fetch and a couple of other insignificant ones.


South Pacific starting to line up again, but it will do that even better later on this week.


Wind on the north shore should make the windswell waves even worse than they already are. I heard Hookipa was really bad yesterday morning because of the chop created by the closeness of the windswell fetch.


PS. Slowly catching up with the ladies contest at my own speed, that round 2 heat between Bethany Hamilton and Tyler Wright brought me some tears. Bethany was totally ripping, she also won her round 3 heat and I can't wait to find out what she did in the rest of the contest. What she does without an arm is mind blowing.

Tuesday, May 31, 2016

9am lahaina side is inconsistent knee to belly occasionally chest high.

5.30am lahaina side looked the usual knee to belly high. I'll be more precise in the update after my session.

5 31 16 morning call

I lost the count of the hours I spent in the water yesterday, but I remember the sessions: four. The first one was at Hookipa that was pretty clean.

Fast waves though, it was hard to make sections.

The other three were at thousand peaks that was good all day. I rode all kinds of board, from an early Craigslist score of a 5.10 twin keel glassed on fins Smith fish to a 9.4 single fin Tudor nose rider from the shop (gonna buy that board whenever it will for sale). In this photo, I'm riding the longboard and I somehow managed to hit that close out lip and come down with it.


Plenty nice little walls like this, if you avoided the closeouts.


South Pacific map still shows a strong Tasman Sea fetch, which means more waves today. It's been a long lasting stretch of surf on the Lahaina side.


3am significant buoy readings.
NW
4.7ft @ 6s from 39° (NE)           
2.5ft @ 10s from 319° (NW)
 
Pauwela
2.4ft @ 6s from 351° (N)           
2.1ft @ 7s from 24° (NNE)
2.1ft @ 11s from 330° (NW)
2ft @ 8s from 76° (ENE)
 
Lanai
2.4ft @ 14s from 184° (S)
 
Still some NW and N energy at the Pauwela buoy will make for some waves at Hookipa. Better hit it early, since the noon wind map below shows some trades later on.
But I'm going south again (I have a lesson at 9.30), so expect a report later in the morning.


North Pacific map shows a close NNE fetch (responsible for the 6 and 7s readings at Pauwela) and a distant NW one.


South Pacific map shows a decent fetch SE of New Zealand that is going to get better tomorrow. Good south swell in a week.

Monday, May 30, 2016