Friday 4-29: 11.20am report/forecast

I'm sorry, I have to quote myself. What did I write last Tuesday? "Then Friday a new NNW pulse (being generated by another storm right in this moment) will arrive. The closer distance from Hawaii will maybe make for a little bigger size, but shorter period and less clean conditions." Fuckin-a, was I right or what? As you can see from the photos below, it was fairly big (often overhead), but a little disorganized. I counted the period and it was everything between 7 and 13 sec. It was hard to get into the waves, most of the people said. Here's why (in my humble opinion). The short period didn't allow the waves to grow on the shoaling reef that much. So most of the people saw a big set and paddled out. But then, they ended up too outside and missed it because it didn't grow as much as they expected. They missed it. I didn't. Damn, it was sooo much fun out there. And how about yesterday? What the hell this is my site, let me quote again my Tuesday forecast:"Yesterday night the equator buoy showed 4 feet, 16 sec from 165 degrees. I bet this direction will be good for the Maalaea reef, 'cause it will travel almost parallel to the Kihei coast. Best day, Thursday morning." There I was. Waiste high at Thousand peaks. 3 hours catching waves standing up on my 12.6... alone!!! Allright, after all this self-celebration, let's move on to today's forecast. Right now the NW buoy shows 8 feet, 13 sec and the Waimea buoy shows 6 feet, 12 sec, 325 degrees. This means the surf will be pretty damn good the whole day, a little smaller tomorrow. No wind at all, light sea breeze in the afternoon for the whole weekend. South shore will have fun waves in the waiste to shoulder high range (Oahu is already head high this morning, of course) every day from today to Wednesday, when a bigger pulse will arrive. Let's wait for it to hit the equator buoy to check how big it's gonna be. I think it's gonna be good. Got to go now. I'll spend the weekend in Hana. You guys don't waste these waves! And click on a banner!!!