oh my. I'm so tired I can barely type. I surfed Dumps yesterday at sunset. It was great fun. Mostly head high, sometimes overhead. But the last 20 minutes of light, it got double overhead. I call it the sunset magic. I caught one of this bombs and made it all the way in. Once the beach, super stoked (I thought I caught the biggest wave of the day), I turn around and see this huge set coming in. It started to build at the rocky point and it started to break way outside the kiave tree, peeling perfectly to the left. Perhaps, the most beautiful waves I've ever seen. Unfortunately, everybody got caught on the inside and nobody was on them. Close to triple overhead. Too bad I didn't have the camera with me. I had it today though (see photos below). Quite smaller, but still a lot of fun. Understand why I'm tired? The peak of the swell was last night, but it's still hanging in with 4 feet, 14 sec at the buoys 51002 and 51003. Readings of the equator buoy, suggest a slow decline in the weekend. Maybe not big enough for the Wailea side anymore (maybe!!), but some small fun stuff on the Lahaina side, for sure.
No sign of the new NW swell at the buoy 51001, I guess it's for Saturday.
Looks like the wind is coming back and we'll have another NW swell later next week, while the south shore is going to be pretty flat. COAB (Click On A Banner), please.
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2 comments:
I had the best session at La Perouse last night. What a wave, what a place, what a gnarly fucking lava rock infested shallow flesh eating reef!!
Awesome rides, awesome sunset!
Okay, I'd better go COAB!!
You rock, girl! Thanks for your comments and... thanks for coabing!
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