Friday, December 18, 2009

cement in my shoulders

What a stretch of phenomenal surfing we just had.

Here's a short list of comments I got from Hookipa surfers about the conditions on Wednesday:
- best day ever
- as good as it gets
- I got a barrel from green trees all the way to the channel at the point
- Lanes was so good it was packed like I've never seen it

I had already scheduled a standup session with some friends and I didn't even check Hookipa, so I feel like I missed out a bit...
But whatever, we found glassy head high waves and it was just four of us. Would have I had more fun on a smaller board and tons of people around me? Who knows and who cares, I had fun enough...
I even took some clips, but rather than boring you guys with the usual footage of perfect glassy waves, I'd like to introduce you a new friend I made when I got back to the car.
Ladies and gentlemen, meet Fifty, the fin loving cat.

In the afternoon, a light Kona wind picked up and a few of us ventured out at Lowers on our sailboards. It was a hell lot of work for a few waves, but, as usual, it was worth it.
After my session, I took a few photos. Alex might have more, so stay tuned.
This is Glenn.

And this is a guy who went out on a longboard. Maybe the best option, considering how light the wind was.

Total time I spent in the water Wednesday: about six hours (another example of good use of a day off). Too bad that when I tried to paddle out Thursday morning, I felt like someone poured cement in my shoulders...

"Fortunately" we are now going to have onshorish conditions for a few days, so no more morning surfing and I might be able to recover a bit...


I received a couple of links to videos:
- Graham Ezzy
- Bernd Roediger
- I'm not too hot about freestyle, but this one is really well done! Seen on


Anonymous said...

What are you talking about, GP? I think the last shot is 'da best!


Meesh said...

Wow, I have time to leave a comment! The Wed 3.5 hour session before my departure delivered some epic pre xmas waves and barrels. Hope you guys get some, and save some for my return :)