Thursday, December 10, 2009

day 7 of a series of big NW swells: another Jaws video

Lil post update.

Ops, sorry for having posted the wrong video, it should be ok now.

I'm also adding the link to some oxbow riders videos in which you can admire:
- Kai Lenni riding Jaws for the first time
- Jason Polakow saying how scared he got
- the same exact wave of Laird that I filmed where I think he could have got barreled, beautifully shot from the helicopter. I still think he could have been deeper, but what the hell do I know and who the hell am I to say so...

Day 8 saw surfing in the morning and light wind wave sailing in the afternoon (loved the last one!). Tomorrow should be windsurfing only, before entering another spell of glassy surf. Why do I say that? Because I need a break from blogging... actually, with addicted bloggers like me you never know. But just in case...

Oh, the Pipeline Masters started in beautiful conditions. I'm about to watch the heats of the first day on demand. How cool is that?

See ya soon!


As promised (to myself), I didn't take more videos/photos of day 7.
I still had two sessions (one SUP and one shortboard) and the surf is still totally pumping over here.

But I found the time to put together a few clips from Monday at Jaws.
I believe the first four waves it's Laird. On the second one, I think he lost the opportunity of the giant barrel of the year... that thing was perfect. He should have stalled more... eheh, easy to say watching the video on a computer screen!
But I love the way he carved his lines on the third wave (the first left).

Talking about lefts at Jaws, here's another sweet one by Francisco Porcella.

BUT, still talking about lefts at Jaws, despite the big respect that goes to all the tow surfers, what they do is LITTLE compared to what my friend Marcio Freire did.
He caught a huge left at Jaws paddling with his own arms. That wave should have received worldwide recognition (how about a billabong XXL award?), but few people even know about it. Knowing Marcio, he doesn't care much. What he cares is that he did catch that wave.
Here's the clip. You have to wait till minute 2.22 for that.

Day 8, wave are still up, got to go surf.


Fish said...

Wow - amazing stuff going on there. I think you have the same video linked/embedded there twice though. I was checking out the second one to see the paddled drop it by your mate, but it isn't there.

So, from someone not too familiar at all with Jaws, what are the consequences of going left versus right?

Niclas said...

couldn't find someone paddling at 2:22

rossi256 said...

either i am blind or i don't see anybody paddling... :)

Anonymous said...

beautiful post. but i think you uploaded the wrong video. check video number 2.

Anonymous said...

When you get back, check your clips, you've got two the same, 2:22 is def a tow-in!

cammar said...

Posting and wanting to leave the house to go surfing are two activities that should never coincide...

sorry about that and thanks for the heads up. It's ok now.

Fish, I have never gone right at Jaws, so I'm not 100% sure...
AHAH, just kidding.
I'm not 100% sure because I have never surfed Jaws (and never - ever - under any circumstances will), but the left looks a bit less steep than the right.

Next time I'll meet a Jaws rider , I'll ask and post.

Anonymous said...

Hew I have no clue but it seems like there is no clear channel in the if they don't kick out of the wave in time they are in deep shit. It's amazing to me that Robby Seeger, arguably the first Jaws rider, went left also wavesailing on Kona winds...both the paddler and Robby deserve big respect because they have no tow partner in a jetski waiting for them after the wave...just to sail or paddle their way back to the line up...