Monday, December 07, 2009

day 4 of a series of big NW swells

Sunday saw the swell go down quite a bit. That meant that the lefts at lowers were rideable, but also that a lot of surfers were out. The rights were still better though, specially those ones that once in a while you could catch from the lefts take off point... veeery long.
I had a couple of those and this is a snapshot.

In the afternoon I was too tired and stiff to do more regular surfing and that's when the standup helps me squeeze in extra time in the water.
Actually, it happened that the conditions were ideal for SUP: super soft waves and very few people out (so that the standuppers were not hogging all the waves) and I ended up having a magic sessions. I remember in particular one left that turned pink on me. Only one. One of those short crazy sunset colors.

Monday morning 7am. I got invited to a special place from where to watch the very best tow surfers in action at Jaws. Stay tuned, 'cause I sure will take a bunch of photos.
Even though I can hear the ocean roaring from my studio (100 yards from the ocean... wow, that was a big one right now!), the NW buoy "only" went up to 16 feet, 16 seconds. Considering that the forecast were for 25 feet, either this swell has a second pulse or the models were wrong.
We'll find out. Sure Jaws will be big no matter what, but if it stays like this, it's not the swell of the century...
Got to go. Later.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

my sister's went to jaws today...they said 40-50' faces and lot's o crashes...a couple friends that were towing said it was as scary as they have seen in...looking forward to your photos...wish i was there instead of illiois where we are going to get a foot of snow the next couple of days