Since the very beginning of this gorgeous day, all I wanted to do was to go back to Cloudbreak.
The forecast was for increasing wave size and I wanted to surf it again before it became too big for my skills.
Well, when we got there it was borderline for my skills. The sets were close to double overhead and the surfers were getting some serious barrels.
This time on the boat was only me, Michelle, Nathan (one of the lifeguards) and the boat driver Uli (pronounced Ulai). Michelle's husband Ulli was still nursing a tweaked back (he pulled a muscled the last day of work before leaving).
After taking a few pics, I decided that if I only hung out on the shoulder I could have done it and so I jumped in the water.
I was the last one down the line and I caught three waves there. Three high adrenaline drops and an amazing wall of water in front to try to outrun before it would shut down on you.
I did pretty good and felt like paddling a little deeper in the lineup.
Caught a couple more in complete disbelief of what my skills were allowing me to do.
Then wave number six came. On it I got the highest speed I've ever got on a surfboard.
Pumping, pumping, pumping trying to stay high, while the big wall of water seemed to be collapsing right in front of me.
Amazingly enough, I managed to make all the sections that seemed impossible and that made me want to keep going as long as I could. Mistake.
Yes, I rode it all the way, but when I bailed I found myself in very shallow waters. So shallow there was no way to duck dive and I got heavily pummeled on the reef. I took quite a few beatings, before fortunately the strong current pulled me out to the channel.
At that point I was definitely done and paddled to the boat to assess the damage.
Fortunately, nothing too bad, just scratches.
Below are the photos I took after my session.
After lunch we opted to surf a way more mellow wave called Pools. It's one of the two waves right in front of the Island. Ulli could finally join us and at the beginning it was so good that it seemed surreal.
The water was so clear that the wave was almost invisible. The shape was absolutely perfect. Not hard core at all, but absolutely totally rippable. Even by a lame backhand surfer like me.
Didn't last long though, because it got crowded (a couple of boats arrived from Tavarua where allegedly Restaurants wasn't too good) and slightly windy.
But still very fun.
Back on the island around 4. Jacuzzi, massage and now one more delicious dinner (the food is outstanding here).
Meesh charging as usual.
Blog author in his fancy and very efficient new lycra (.5mm neoprene on the front protects the ribs from the rash). Notice the glassiness of the water.
It looks way worse than it is. Just a bit of missing skin, no problem at all.
This is Uli and you have no idea of well how well this guy can surf.
Low tide view from my window.
These little fellows are everywhere.
Last but not least, Michelle's best shot from the water photographer.