Thursday, December 25, 2014

12 25 14

4am main swell buoy readings:

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
11.1ft @ 12s from 359° (N)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
 2.7ft @ 12s from 281° (WNW)
1.7ft @ 8s from 261° (W)
1.4ft @ 9s from 282° (WNW)

I really hope some of the readers are scoring good sessions thanks to the info on this blog.
I most definitely am. The last three days my sessions were all 8s or higher...

Once again, big not so powerful swell from the north (11f 12s). Love it.
Also because the two spots I'm gonna surf with this size and directions, one likes high and the other low tides. I only hope I'll be able to recover soon enough between the two... I do the same kind of stuff when I'm in Bali.
I never talk about the tide, unless there's something extreme or particular about it. Also because tides in Hawaii are not particularly important in most cases. Some spots do feel it more then others, but most spots it doesn't matter all that much.
You can read it yourself (link n.12 in the list on the right).

Below is the wind map that shows a lovely low that formed just north of us. I remember mentioning that like a week ago, in the middle of a very windy period, and I was looking forward to the change.
Because of the counterclockwise circulation of the air around a low in the northern hemisphere, today the wind will be light and from a very unusual westerly direction.
I also circled a wide (but not particularly intense) fetch to the NW that will provide us in the next few days with continuous waves from that direction.
I forgot to circle the fetch to the left of the L that is sending us these super fun waves from the N, but I hope you guys are starting to be able to identify the fetches pointing towards us without my help.
Pretty easy task, after you pay attention to it a few times, I'd say.
The north fetch is way smaller than the NW one, but it's far closer to the islands and that's why we're seeing these sizes at the buoy. Waves travel in an amazingly efficient way, but they do lose energy by doing so.

Talking about wind (by far the most important factor for surfing in Maui other than the swells themselves), I quickly checked the weather maps 7 days ahead (link n.1) and that low is going to stay there for a few days not allowing any chance to the trade winds to come back.
I know there's a lot of windsurfers that came to Maui to spend the holidays hoping to score some sailing, but it's winter time and the wind is not guaranteed at all.
Grab a surfboard or a SUP you guys and enjoy paradise anyway.
That's all I have to say today. Did you grab your maui map and figure out where to surf on a straight north?

Have fun in the sun everyone!

1 comment:

Chris R said...

Thx for all the info, bro, it's very helpful! Merry Xmas!