Saturday, December 27, 2014

12 27 14 morning call

4am main swell buoy readings:

6.5ft @ 8s from 354° (N)
5.4ft @ 13s from 311° (NW)
4.4ft @ 10s from 51° (ENE)

6.2ft @ 9s from 6° (N)
2.9ft @ 13s from 332° (NNW)
2ft @ 4s from 333° (NNW) 

Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's north shore)
6.7ft @ 9s from 1° (N)
2.3ft @ 15s from 326° (NW)
2ft @ 4s from 327° (NW)

West lanai Maui north shore (indicative of what's in the water on Maui's south shore)
    2.5ft @ 5s from 285° (WNW)
1.4ft @ 12s from 208° (SSW)
0.9ft @ 9s from 277° (W)
1.2ft @ 7s from 264° (W)

From Pat Caldwell's forecast summary: "overlapping remote and nearby swell events making for confused breakers on northern shores. "
That most definitely sums it up.
A new long period NW swell generated by that big wide fetch to the NW corner of the pacific that I pointed out often in the previous posts is arriving today and is mixing up with the short period N swell that is being providing us with really fun waves for the past few days.
Here's the graph of the NW buoy that shows the NW swell not really ramping up all that much.
It's the light blue line. The dark blue line is the N swell. And the black line is the sum of the energy of the two swells and it's the reading you get if you go to the NOAA website instead. Extremely deceiving, I'd say.


Anyway, even mixed up swells will give life to clean surf if the wind were right.
(Sorry, I just got to say how much I hate this grammar rule in English... that doesn't make any sense, it should be "if the wind was right", but I believe it's not!!)
But unfortunately, the wind is not right.
Below is the wind map with the usual two fetches (NW remote one and N close one) we've been observing for quite a few days now.

This instead is the close up that shows how close that fetch is today. For the surf to be good, the fetch needs to be at a longer distance from the breaks, so that the different period components of the swell can separate from each other (long period travels faster than short) and hopefully the wind at the break will be right.
In this case, the head of the fetch is so close to the islands that we're actually getting a bit of active sea with NW wind on it! Plus, don't forget the overlapping of the remote NW swell...

This is the iWindsurf map at 6.36am and it shows right that: 10 mph from WNW at Hookipa... that's why I'm taking it easy this morning.
But it also shows 4mph from SW at the harbor, so there might be clean conditions somewhere for... who knows how long.

The onshore wind will be the problem during the weekend, you really need to be creative to find a good spot. I hope the info I just provided you with will help.

PS. Windsurfing has been cancelled also the whole next week.

Have fun in the sun everyone!


Anonymous said...

Did not like that last comment on windsurfing at all but thanks for the good reports.

cammar said...

well, it's onshore and strong enough for sailing at kanaha...

Johan Piculell said...

Yea, noticed some wind in the afternoon but we were on west Maui then. Anyone out sailing Kanaha from what you know?

cammar said... is great for that.
At 11.15am there's no one out and the wind is 14mph sideon.