Report from yesterday starts with a great shot from Jason Hall: Mark Anderson at Honolua Bay on a ruler edge beauty.
This might be a little less ruler edged, and it's definitely not as exciting surfing as Mr. Anderson up there, but I'll take a session like this by myself over a session at the Bay with 50 guys out any time.
This was actually 2 days ago and I timed this session perfectly. When I paddled in, flocks of cars were pulling in the parking lot.
Btw, unless you're good, surf photos are often disappointing. That felt like Parko's floater in round 5 at Bells when I did it...
Sorry, another photo from two days ago a little later in the morning. Dedicated to my physical therapist Erika Fabian: sorry if I ruined some of your work on my finger because of that quick session, dear. I hope you can tell that I had fun at least!
Lots of uninteresting stuff today before getting to the call, but I have messages to the world of undelayable importance.
As I say often, I question everything. The thing I questioned yesterday is the tail block on the foot pad you stick on a surfboard, so I cut it off the one I bought for my new board.
That's how it looks without it. Please also notice the double loop leash cord I do instead of the classic "kite style" one. Two loops are better than one and because it can freely move around the plug pin, it will last a lot longer.
Here's how it would have looked with the tail block. Does it look like the China wall for the water flowing on top of the board or what? I know, good surfers like the block because when they feel the foot against it they know the foot is in the right place and they like to jam it against it.
But at my level, I never really hit it. And those few times that I do, it feels more like a distraction than everything.
As soon as I put it on, I realized that that board is going to live in Indo where I only surf with booties, so I could have actually not put a pad at all... but I'll use it to see if it makes any difference.
The main message here is not to do the same to your next back foot pad. The message is to use your brain and think original. Not necessarily different, but original.
The lack of original thought is something that I find quite depressing in this "all want to be like the other ones" society. And the people that want to look/think different just for the sake of it are even more depressing.
Question everything and do what makes sense for you. It you make a mistake, at least you will have learned on your own and you might have learned something else in the meantime.
Enough of that, buoys next.
They're all going down, so expect less size than yesterday. Still, we're gonna be dreaming of 4.6ft @ 13s from 330° any time soon.
Actually, I take that back immediately. Look at how lovely the fetch of the new storm looks like. Swell scheduled for Sunday on the tail end of the current one.
The fetch down south has moved east, but it's still sending us something. Next week good waves all week on the south shore.
The only thing that is "bad" on that map is the massive area of ENE trades that we are submerged in.
Oh well, I moved to Maui because of the trades, so I can't really hate them can I?
Well, trades or not trades, enjoy your day because it's gonna be stunning. Check this other image!