Tuesday, September 13, 2016

9 13 16 morning call

Knee high longboard session for me at Thousand Peaks yesterday was delightful because of how glassy the waves were. By 8.30ish a slight breeze caused a bit of texture and it wasn't quite the same.
Anyway, thanks to a lovely 9.4 single fin nose rider I survived one of the smallest days since I got back and today it will be a different story.

In fact we are celebrating the first NW swell of the season and what's a better symbol for that than this party wave at Jaws? Photo by Jimmie Hepp.

Significant buoy readings 4am
4.9ft @ 13s from 326° (NW)

3.3ft @ 13s from 320° (NW)

3.3ft @ 14s from 326° (NW)

Before I comment on the buoy readings, I need to apologize for a brain fart I had yesterday. I wrote:"it went down that much in those four hours that the swell takes to travel between the two buoys" and I was referring to the NW and Waimea buoys.
As illustrated in this post that can be found in the labels section of this blog as NW buoy to Maui travel time and shadowing angles, that time is instead more like 12 hours at 14s.
Maybe I had in mind the travel distance between Waimea and Pauwela or maybe it was just not having used those times for a while. Whatever it was, I corrected the post and now we move forward.

Not much too comment on today's buoy readings other than: the swell is here! Stay tuned for a beach report later. Early morning should be fairly clean (iWindsurf.com sensor reading a bit of offshore at 5.30am), and I'm going to rise already a high crowd advisory, seen the friendly size and the fact that it's the first swell of the season.

1.5ft @ 8s from 193° (SSW)
1.1ft @ 16s from 211° (SW)
1ft @ 12s from 216° (SW)
South shore could be an alternative, if you're into small waves. That's what those readings mean, probably knee to thigh high, but check the webcam before going.
Current wind map shows a proper NW fetch (second NW swell on Friday/Saturday) and a wide, strong fetch down south that is more aimed towards the Americas.
MC2km map not updated yet, check link n.17 to see what the wind is going to do.
Should be pretty light, but some models are calling for onshore by mid morning.

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