Thursday, September 15, 2016

9 15 16 morning call

Major score yesterday for me.

After a quick session at Hookipa (overhead and glassy, but not that clean), I drove to the Lahaina side. As I wrote in the updates, it took me 45 minutes to drive through the Pali. No other reason for that traffic, other than the curiosity of the drivers that wanted to have a good look at this situation at Papalaua Park (Grandma's). Those cars might have trouble starting...

The big rain of two days ago made the water quite muddy everywhere. Here's how it looked at Grandma's: red.

That was a blessing since it kept the crowd at a minimal level. I scored my favorite Lahaina break in pristine offshore conditions by myself. A session I could either call:
- shape over size (the reference is to Hookipa)
- shoulder high brown perfection

It was so good that after a solid nap (I was off for the day), I went to check it out again. Tide was high, the wind was a bit onshore, I had to wait at least one hour before it had a chance to get good again. Obviously, I went to check the Bay which - for the records - was breaking the day before, but not yesterday. Not at high tide, at least. Back from the bay, I surfed Lahaina again, but it wasn't quite as good as in the morning. Plus 6 people felt like a huge crowd compared to the non existing morning one. I get spoiled easily.

On the way back, the traffic was still slow because of the very same reason, but I relaxed and enjoyed a lightening show that was happening for a thunderstorm over Haiku. Photographer Jimmie Hepp was on the same road and he took this shot.

And since we're talking about rain, let's have a look at the latest satellite photo of 4am. That big cloud is getting bigger and bigger. You can check the updated animation at link n.6.

But the image I like best is the Water Vapor one. The animation at link n.7 shows a counter clockwise circulation right over the islands that is a bit intimidating. A flash flood warning has been issued for the north shore. I'm off again and I think I'm going to Lahaina again.

Here's how the rain looks (link n.8). Pretty bad. Or good, depends on the point of view. More rain, more brown water, less people.

Significant buoy readings 4am.
The graph of the three buoys show the current NW swell in decline. Pauwela has the highest reading and that's because the swell has declined first and more at the NW and Waimea buoys. But it's gonna come down in Maui too.
Anyway, 3.7ft @ 11s from 328° (NW) is still a fun size.

But with a reading of 2.2ft @ 15s from 201° (SSW) at the Lanai buoy, as I was saying before, I see myself driving to Lahaina again. This time right away, so hopefully I'll avoid the traffic.
I have a hell lot of shortboards to test and they're all damn good, so it's difficult to pick the keeper(s). What a good problem to have.

Below is the map of Sept. 7, if someone is interested in knowing where does this SSW swell comes from. Imagine if New Zealand wasn't there...

And this is Sept. 8th. Still something.

Current wind map shows the NW fetch getting a bit weaker, but the weekend NW swell should be solid. 5f 14s forecasted peak on Saturday night by Surfline.
Not much going on down south, as the winds have gone zonal (west to east).

MC2km maps not updated. The trades are supposed to be back today, but with all those clouds around, you never know.

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