Sunday, December 01, 2019

Sunday 12 1 19 morning call

Nothing to show from yesterday, other than at sunset and in between squalls, it was pretty bad everywhere. This is part one of an interview with Dave Kalama and his son Austin. Dave is one of my favorite story tellers, I really enjoyed it.

3-4am significant buoy readings and discussion.
South shore
1ft @ 16s from 228° (SW)

This is the only reading that could be the sign of the low long period southerly energy that should be in the water. Check the Lahaina webcam, there might easily be also a wrap from the N swell.

North shore
11.1ft @ 14s from 33° (NE)
10.3ft @ 10s from 68° (ENE)

10.9ft @ 16s from 350° (N)
8.6ft @ 10s from 358° (N)
8.2ft @ 10s from 19° (NNE)
7.4ft @ 15s from 356° (N)
6.7ft @ 11s from 10° (N)

7.9ft @ 11s from 15° (NNE)
6.8ft @ 9s from 26° (NNE)
6ft @ 16s from 358° (N)
Big north swell is here, clocking in at 6ft 16s at Pauwela. At the NW buoy, it went up to 11ft 14s, and it's 7.4ft 15s at Waimea, so expect it to keep building throughout the day. Notice how different are the directions at the NW and N buoys, those open ocean buoys can be subject to so many energies that I rarely rely on their direction indication. Much more reliable are the local buoys (356 and 358, sounds like north to me!) or even better, the position of the fetch that originated the swell (check the collage of the maps I posted yesterday).

North is a good direction for Honolua, as it gets in there unblocked by Molokai, but it does have to wrap around the Maui land points more than a NNW direction (say 340), so it will lose a bit of its energy by doing so and act more like a proper slightly softer peeling point break. It also won't hit the reef in front of the Cave section as straight, so it won't throw the same amounts of open barrels. Still extremely rippable and possibly very long rides. The real "issue" is the presence of shorter period energies, which (coming from 15 and 26 degrees) will easily find their way into the lineup, possibly introducing chops and ribs. Not classic Honolua (an example of which would be 10ft 16s from 340, light easterly trades and nothing else in the water), but I think the WSL ladies will finally get wet. Check them out, this is the link to the contest page.
What about the rest of us? Between active wind, N ground swell and windswells of all sorts, the North shore will be big and extremely rough, offering decent conditions only in very protected spots.
Much better chances to find something clean on the upper west side. Good luck with the hunt.

Wind map at noon.

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
6:08a  +2.4                       10:33p  +0.3                  6:48a   5:45p   

North Pacific has a weak NW fetch and a mix of direct aim and angular spreading from a NNE close by one.

Nothing from the south.

Morning sky.

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