Morning session was clean chest to head high, but more people than waves. First time in 23 days in which I didn't have fun.
Conditions were nice though, I gave it a 7. Once again, the gopro battery for some reason was dead, so no photos.
Afternoon session had moderate wind but straight offshore, so a good 8, as the couple of shots hopefully show.
The trend is for the size to go down and for the wind to increase, so I decided to go back to Bali tomorrow and figure out the rest of my travel plans.
It was an amazing 23 days of surfing my favorite wave in the world.
2 comments:
What a trip! Stoked you are scoring, GP!
we talk board volume a lot when chatting in the shop (or in the water)... and when I read about your 6.10x19.75x2.75x40L I thought, wha?! GP gives me shit if talk about 31ltrs... & he's got a 40l board in Indo??
My question is: would you ever see your self riding a step up with that much volume on Maui? Or is that an Indo-specific board, that you would only use at a perfect reef pass or point - when you don't need to duck dive as much (potentially).
If yes to the Maui question- a Follow up: where on Maui would you ride It when the waves were big enough to call for it? Hookipa? Wai side? Just curious. I know it's a preference thing & that's why I ask.
Always entertaining to get your take.
Smooth travels, Dan
The 40L 6.10 was designed for second trip to Fiji, based on the fact that on my first one I was able to surf big Cloudbreak mostly thanks to the fact that I had a 40L board. I then decided to cut that trip short to only 4 days and I left the board in Indo.
I keep it in that spot, because it keeps a perfect shape also when it's really big and there's no other spots. Well, there are actually, but I like that wave so much that I prefer to still surf there. It allowed me to surf triple overhead waves in 2014.
It's not too big to duck dive and I use it with a thick leash when it's just too much to duck dive it and just let go. It's also built very strong (and as such a bit heavy).
Every time I use it, I think I should get one for Maui too. When it's big at Hookipa, I usually prefer to surf somewhere else smaller, but if I had one (and one day I might ask Matt to build me one, With it, I would surf big Lanes on a clean day. Not the Bay, because it's always too crowded when it's big and beautiful.
Cheers!
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