Saturday 12 29 18 morning call

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I'm injured and these are the photos I took in the morning at Hookipa. Seen the westerly direction of the rising long period swell, The Point was the worse of the four main breaks (strong rip going across), but Jacob Romero managed to find an Honolua looking one.


The real beauty was across the channel though.


Young Abby isn't scared by big waves and was charging Middles.


Meanwhile Kai Lenny and friends were deciding were to go. They drove up the coast (probably to check Jaws), but came back (probably too windy).

Albee Layer was out on a strapped surfboard. He was doing pretty good at getting in the straps (front foot in right away and back foot as soon as he had an opportunity), generating the speed (he was going definitely faster than normal), doing the rotation, but he was missing most of the landings. From my point of view, he's just not used to them and should insist. To me, they make so much sense for aerials. They make so much sense also for regular surfing, that I might put them back on one of my surfboards too (did that long time ago).

 

He then went for the small straight air below and finally landed it.

The massive celebration was obviously self-ironic.

 

 

Tanner Hendrickson was out there too, placing powerful turns through the ribs created by the rip current.

 

This photo by Chris illustrates a cut back from Dave Kalama. As I was saying in the talk over video I posted yesterday, cutbacks while foiling require bending both knees and keeping the board low to the water. The acceleration you get out of a change of direction, in fact, will make the foil want to come out unless you compensate by pushing it down. There's three angles in foiling: pitch, roll and yaw. IMO, the perfect foiling cutback is the one where once you set those angles at the beginning of it, you don't have to adjust them through the whole turn. That results in a beautiful flow and lack of speed loss. Dave Kalama is a master at that, 90% of his cutbacks are like that. Every time I foil with him, I get better just by watching him. Unfortunately, as soon as he leaves, I regress to my original skill level...
I'll add this photo to yesterday's post and add it to the "foiling" label.


5am significant buoy readings
South shore
No indication of southerly energy at the buoys. Yeterday a Hi-Tech rental customer gave me a report of knee high waves at Launiupoko, but I highly doubt there will anything at all with Ala Moana looking like this.


North shore
NW001
6.6ft @ 15s from 337° (NNW)

6ft @ 8s from 17° (NNE)

4.3ft @ 11s from 349° (NNW)

Hanalei
9.8ft @ 15s from 315° (NW)

6.6ft @ 9s from 347° (NNW)

 

Waimea

6.4ft @ 15s from 317° (NW)

 

Pauwela

6.5ft @ 17s from 320° (NW)

5.5ft @ 10s from 94° (E)

 

Below is Pauwela's graph that shows that the swell peaked mid day yesterday. Still plenty energy in the water though, the problem (for the surfers) is going to be the wind that is predicted to return whipping Maui's north shore from an easterly direction.

Wind map at noon.


North Pacific still has a strong and wide WNW fetch, with the same N and E small much closer fetches we saw yesterday. Hanalei's reading 6.6ft @ 9s from 347° (NNW) is probably because of the N one and we should expect that energy to start rising in Maui too.


Tiny almost insignificant S fetch in the South Pacific.


Morning sky.