Tuesday 11 12 19 morning call

 

The wonderful windless conditions blessed us also yesterday morning. My ribs are flaring up a bit, I'm back at using my custom tank top with inside foam cushion.

A friend of mine once told me his theory that the oxygen released by the white water of a broken wave is more pure and ionized. No idea if that's true (and don't care), all I know is that it's wonderful to be surrounded by a sea of fizzling white bubbles after a wipeout. As long as I didn't get hurt (or snapped the board), one of my favorite parts of surfing.

Ridge Lenny has been ripping The Point with his padded KT lately.

Paige Alms not missing many session either.


Cruising at Middles.

Drop wallet, lay back, whatever you call it, this was the turn of the day and I don't even know who the guy is. PS. Ian Walsh, as identified by blog reader Alex.

Kain Daly digging a crevasse mid face.

I'm assuming most people know about the Kanaha high bacteria advisory, here's the  link to check the updates.

4am significant buoy readings and discussion
South shore
Barbers
3.6ft @ 13s from 205° (SSW)

Lanai
2.6ft @ 13s from 194° (SSW)

Smaller sizes and period at the local buoys, the off season south swell starts to show signs of decline. Good swells on both sides are a bit a waste for me, I didn't surf this one at all. Check the Lahaina webcam if interested. Looks a bit smaller and less consistent, but still get waves.


North shore
NW101
4.2ft @ 10s from 330° (NW)

Waimea
4.2ft @ 12s from 324° (NW)

2.9ft @ 9s from 340° (NNW)

Pauwela

3.6ft @ 13s from 323° (NW)

3.4ft @ 9s from 3° (N)

3.4ft @ 10s from 337° (NNW)

 

All buoys coming down in size and period, today should be smaller than the past few days and with a declining trend, but still starting off at head high plus.

Wind map at noon.

Kahului Tides
High Tide     High Tide     Low Tide     Low Tide       Sunrise   Sunset
2:35a  +2.5   1:41p  +1.8   8:40a  +0.8   8:05p  -0.2    6:36a   5:47p    

North Pacific has a small NW fetch off the Kurils and a much bigger/stronger one associated with bombing low (when a low pressure system's central pressure falls 24 millibars in 24 hours or less) of 948mb. That is giving life to a large swell that Surfline predicts to peak at 8.6ft 16s from 340 (epic Honolua) on Friday morning. Seems a bit conservative to me, but it all will depend on the evolution of the fetch.
A second large swell (more west because coming from the first fetch) is predicted for Sunday at 9ft 16s from around 310.

South shore has a fetch in the Tasman Sea and a small/weak S one.

Morning sky.