We arrived early in the morning and immediately drove south to check the surf (every vacation should start like this).
The south swell was pumping and we ended up at the spot we surfed last year, where there was even a contest going on. This first photo is not from the contest, though... next break over, still in our confortable vision, sitting in the shade on a perfectly mowed grass. This guy is coming from a quite deep bottom turn.
Same ride, a couple of turns later.
This is clearly the contest, instead. The spot is called PK's and it's a big often closing out right that you can catch on the outside and then, if you can keep up with the white water, it reforms on the inside to the left till the rocks.
I think the photo actually shows exactly what I'm talking about.
What I like in this turn is that you usually see that body position on the surf magazine, maybe on a 6 feet wave. I think it's even more difficult to do it on a little mushy wave like that.
This is a new kind of skateboard, I suppose. It only has one wheel on respectively the front and the back and it can twist along its axis. It really turns a lot.
I showed this photo to this surfer, when he got out of the water.
"I can send it to you, if you want", I said.
He didn't even answer.
I would pay some money (say... even 20 bucks!) for a photo like that!
I really like this one.
I decided not to surf here. Too gnarly. Backside on the shortboard? I'm not nearly as good as this guy...
Thanks to Michelle's wavefinder, I ended up surfing a more mellow left called Pakala. Not exactly mellow, as you can see from this photo...
Well, that was a big set. I sat on the inside and caught a bunch of smaller ones. Something like this one...
As you guys probably figured out, there's a wireless connection at the place where we're staying, so I can eventually do a daily report.
The forecast is really good, calling for one or two more days of south swell and then a small NW on Wednesday and a big NW on Friday for the whole weekend. We leave on Sunday afternoon. I think I have quite a good opportunity to surf every day (like if I was doing something different in Maui...).
Last year in September we were in Costa Rica flooded by heavy rains with shitty beach break waves in brown water and onshore wind.
I'm sure Costa Rica is great in a different season. But, trust me, beating this is not going to be easy.
I officially confess that I have some surfing expectations out of this trip. And that's never a good thing... We'll see.
2 comments:
The first wave looks sick!! Is that acid drops? Middle wave that was barely breaking when we were there last? Good choice of week to go!!
It's that one, even though I think that is called Centers. Acid drop should be the next one down the coast and it's mostly a right. That's what your wave finder says, at least. And what about the one with the surfer that wasn't interested in having the photo? That's the first break we surfed. Pretty much a big closeout!
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