So, after an incredible June-July combo filled with back to back episodes of south swells that I thoroughly (if I got the spelling right, it's pure luck) enjoyed in Oahu, now that I'm back in Maui we get two, not one, two big east swells thanks to two ex hurricanes that went more north than normal. I've never seen anything like that!
It seems like the waves follow me.
Well, I'm going to Italy in September, will they follow me over there too? Everything is possible, when one is as lucky as me...
I had a couple of really fun sessions today and I'm particularly happy with my performance (now, that doesn't happen often!).
Something is finally happening with my shortboard surfing. I'm still overall kind of a lame shortboarder, but I'm getting some confidence in the steep drops and in the search for the steep sections.
The waves were chest to overhead high. It was cloudy and it rained a few times. It looked like winter. Boy, did that feel good or what? Coming up readers, coming up!
Last wave was the best. One foot overhead, I went all the way down to the bottom and all the way up to the top and all the way down to the bottom and all the way up to the top again and then I the lip of a close out section and I stuck it... I just couldn't believe it!
I have never done anything like that in 7 years of longboard surfing.
All those tough, hard and frustrating times of the beginning of the conversion are starting to pay off.
Till last year I used to say that the toughest thing I did in my life was to become an engineer. Not anymore.
Trying to become a shortboard surfer at 46 is way harder (and way more fun). Fortunately, no one will ever give me a degree in that subject and the learning process will never stop.
Back in town, I needed to buy some grocery. This is an example of the magic things that can happen in Paia (right outside Mana food's).
Both the lyrics and the music of the first song this guy played went straight to my heart. Unfortunately my camera was in the car and I couldn't film that one.
Thank you brother harp player.