Tuesday, August 18, 2009

the best august I can remember (surfwise on the north shore)

So, after an incredible June-July combo filled with back to back episodes of south swells that I thoroughly (if I got the spelling right, it's pure luck) enjoyed in Oahu, now that I'm back in Maui we get two, not one, two big east swells thanks to two ex hurricanes that went more north than normal. I've never seen anything like that!
It seems like the waves follow me.
Well, I'm going to Italy in September, will they follow me over there too? Everything is possible, when one is as lucky as me...

I had a couple of really fun sessions today and I'm particularly happy with my performance (now, that doesn't happen often!).
Something is finally happening with my shortboard surfing. I'm still overall kind of a lame shortboarder, but I'm getting some confidence in the steep drops and in the search for the steep sections.

The waves were chest to overhead high. It was cloudy and it rained a few times. It looked like winter. Boy, did that feel good or what? Coming up readers, coming up!

Last wave was the best. One foot overhead, I went all the way down to the bottom and all the way up to the top and all the way down to the bottom and all the way up to the top again and then I the lip of a close out section and I stuck it... I just couldn't believe it!
I have never done anything like that in 7 years of longboard surfing.
All those tough, hard and frustrating times of the beginning of the conversion are starting to pay off.

Till last year I used to say that the toughest thing I did in my life was to become an engineer. Not anymore.
Trying to become a shortboard surfer at 46 is way harder (and way more fun). Fortunately, no one will ever give me a degree in that subject and the learning process will never stop.

Back in town, I needed to buy some grocery. This is an example of the magic things that can happen in Paia (right outside Mana food's).
Both the lyrics and the music of the first song this guy played went straight to my heart. Unfortunately my camera was in the car and I couldn't film that one.
Thank you brother harp player.


Anonymous said...

That guy should have charged you for that! Really nice song!

Usual props and keep it up with the blog.

Michael said...

Hey GP,

I'm 45 and started surfing later in life too. I've been trying to become a reasonable short-boarder and feel your struggle. Do you have a specific stretching and/or workout routine to help with the flexibility required for a small board?

cammar said...

Michael, I do and I will need to do a post with photos about it...
Please remind me if I forget.

You're right: way more than strenght, flexibility is the key to shortboard surfing. That's why I'm still quite a mediocre shortboarder.

Anonymous said...

Awesome on the surfing man!

What's the secret of the steeper drops? I have been short boarding a bit lately as well but if the take offs get too steep I'm either eating it hard or whimping out... any tips?

cammar said...

The only tip I can think of is that on a steep takeoff you have to stop paddling and get on your feet a bit earlier and faster than on a mellow one.
But mostly it's just a lot of practice.
339 waves caught in Oahu on my 6.10 (old fart shortboard) helped a lot, but the real test will come this winter at Lanes...

Ray said...

Hey GP,

If you decide to do a post on stretching, can you get a hot girl to model the poses?


-All of the readers

cammar said...

I'd love to, but I'm a bit short of those at the moment.

How's this: hey Nick, I'll publish the last and best sequence of your photos ONLY if you convince your lovely girlfriend to pose for the stretching poses... hehe...

Anyway, hot reader girls: email me if you want to apply for the job.