Man, I caught some of my best waves ever.
Dawn patrol offered glassy, sunny conditions. Still plenty overhead up the coast.
Here's a couple of snapshots.
And here's an unedited clip of a wave.
In the afternoon, Nick, Pascal, Glenn and I were even able to sneak in a fun port tack wavesailing sesh. At first, it seemed that all last summer practice in Oahu had completely disappeared. But after a few waves I tuned into it a little better...
Today (it's Saturday morning, 6.30am), it's going to be really, really big.
The NW buoys is showing 12 feet 16 sec, 8 feet 14 seconds, 8 feet 10 seconds all from around 225. That will make it dangerously consistent with frequent sets and plenty freak sets.
That's the fetch that created this swell (weather map of Dec 3rd).
And that's the fetch that is creating the monster one of Monday - Tuesday. Notice that that fetch is building seas over the already developed seas of the previous fetch of two days ago. That's why it's going to be abnormally big. But read the Pat Caldwell's explanation. That's meteorology poetry right there...
OK, time to go look for a place that is actually surfable...
PS. Final day of the surf contest at Sunset. Maui's Dusty Payne is in the first heat of the quarter finals.