What another amazing day of surfing yesterday was. I had a 3 hours morning session on a shortboard and managed to take some pics all around the island.
This is a very fickle bodyboard spot.
Believe it or not, this was the very first time I saw this wave.
Kinda heavy too.
And this is the first photo I took at Hookipa. Could have left right after it...
Good luck with that duck dive!
A beauty catches a beauty at Middles.
Beautiful wall of water to play with.
Take off at the point.
And good luck with that duck dive too!
Another beautiful left.
This photo may disturb someone (fortunately is out of focus), but it's to document how 2 mm of neoprene saved me from a bad cut. My sunset session was on the standup (way too tired to lay down paddle) and on the first wave (a big steep right), I wiped out pretty bad and got a nice caress by a fin.
Well, if the photo above didn't disturb you guys, this one will. But at the same time I'm pretty sure it will please the ladies... good game!
My rib is sore, but the waves are still up, I have a board to try and there's rain just around the corner. In other words, I got to go surf again!