Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Ribs tale

Long time no post, I know.

I've been dry for 10 days because of my rib. Too much pain to do anything at all put a cap on my inspiration. Then Saturday afternoon I finally decided to go see my body mechanic.
He told me that the rib was dislocated and put it back to where it should have been.
"If you came right away I could have saved you 10 days of pain..." he added.

You always hear: for broken, cracked or bruised ribs, there's nothing you can do, you only have to wait. That's true, but first check if they are in the right place!!!

Anyway, on Sunday I was so much better that I could do something like 5 hours of standup surfing (definitely NOT my favorite kind of surfing, but A LOT better than nothing) in three different sessions.
In the dawn patrol one, I took some photos with my gopro

Here's how the sunrise looked like.

First wave.

Later in the day.

Straightened horizon.

Bottom turn.

My hand reminded me of something...

Of course, the hands of this guy! Still in the top five of my favorite LPs...

Well, on Monday (yesterday) the rib felt so much better that, after another morning SUP sesh, in the afternoon I paddled out to one of my favorite waves on my shortboard.
OMG, did I have fun or what?! I caught 6-7 perfect shoulder high long peelers before falling on a takeoff and landing on the wrong side and hurting the rib again.

Body mechanic, here I come again... hope you can do your miracle again!
Waves have been, are and will be glassy and it's pretty hard to be land lock.

Congrats to Kai Lenny for winning the SUP world title. The waves in Big Island for the last contest were quite average, but he deserved his title right from the start when he ruled everyone on a massive Sunset Beach day.
Originally I wanted to link the videos of that day, but SUP in big choppy waves looks just too bad to me with those huge boards bouncing all over the place.
So, I'll link this little video instead that shows SUP in conditions where it is definitely more fun than regular surfing: small, "shitty" waves (don't mean to offend anybody, that's just what I think) and because it shows the other Maui kids that did good (Bernd and Ridge).

BIG congrats to Jeremy Flores for winning the Pipe Masters. Winning the world's most prestigious surf contest (even though this year it should have been called Backdoor Masters) must have been a huge thing for the young Frenchman.
Here's his blog and the video that shows the barrels that gave him the win.


Anonymous said...

Good to see you on the water GP

Great Album and what a cover!

If you haven't heard Van Der Graaf Generator give them a listen (early lineup is better that later)


cammar said...

thank you SO MUCH for reminding of that great band! I used to own Pawn Hearts and this morning, thanks to you, I went and listened to it again online... what a pleasure!

Back in Rome I went to a solo concert of Peter Hammill. Just him with a piano. Not the easiest music to listen to, but... what intensity!

No way, they will actually play in Italy in April: http://www.ilike.com/artist/Van+Der+Graaf+Generator/events

Anyway, maybe I will return the favor by suggesting you to give a listen to my favorite album of that magic era of progressive rock: Nursery Crime.

Here, I got to paste some VDGG lyrics...

"The killer lives inside me; yes, I can feel him move.
Sometimes he's lightly sleeping in the quiet of his room;
but then his eyes will rise and stare through mine,
he'll speak my words and slice my mind inside.
Yes, the killer lives.

The angels live inside me, I can feel them smile;
their presence strokes and soothes the tempest in my mind
and their love can heal the wounds that I have wrought.
They watch me as I go to fall;
well, I know I shall be caught
while the angels live.

How can I be free?
How can I get help?
Am I really me?
Am I someone else?

But stalking in my cloisters hang the acolytes of gloom
and Death's Head throws his cloak into the corner of my room
and I am doomed.
But laughing in my courtyard play the pranksters of my youth
and solemn, waiting Old Man in the gables of the roof:
he tells me truth.

And I, too, live inside me and very often don't know who I am;
I know I'm not a hero;well, I hope that I'm not damned.
I'm just a man, and killers, angels, all are these,
dictators, saviours, refugees in war and peace
as long as Man lives...

I'm just a man, and killers, angels, all are these:
dictators, saviours, refugees."

PS. Body mechanic did the miracle again. Let's see how long the rib lasts in its correct position this time...

Anonymous said...


That is Amazing! I am so jealous of you that you saw Peter Hammill live (even if he was in his intense mode!)

Pawn Harts is one of my favorites from them

Thanks I will check Nursery Crime out

Great lyrics and Great song! Peter Hammill provides the full spectrum of soft to intense in this song... I have to find my CD and play it tonight!

Good luck with the ribs


cammar said...

OMG, that means that you didn't know Nursery Crime... just google it, I thought it was such a masterpiece I didn't even need to mention the band... :)

Don't be too jelous about the Peter Hammill concert. It was in an unused train station (typical italian planning) and the acoustic was horrible.

This morning I surfed my shortboard again and tonight my rib is doing great.
Body mechanic, I love you.
Cheers and thanks for the Aussie Merry Christmas!