Long time no post, I know.
I've been dry for 10 days because of my rib. Too much pain to do anything at all put a cap on my inspiration. Then Saturday afternoon I finally decided to go see my body mechanic.
He told me that the rib was dislocated and put it back to where it should have been.
"If you came right away I could have saved you 10 days of pain..." he added.
You always hear: for broken, cracked or bruised ribs, there's nothing you can do, you only have to wait. That's true, but first check if they are in the right place!!!
Anyway, on Sunday I was so much better that I could do something like 5 hours of standup surfing (definitely NOT my favorite kind of surfing, but A LOT better than nothing) in three different sessions.
In the dawn patrol one, I took some photos with my gopro
Here's how the sunrise looked like.
Later in the day.
My hand reminded me of something...
Of course, the hands of this guy! Still in the top five of my favorite LPs...
Well, on Monday (yesterday) the rib felt so much better that, after another morning SUP sesh, in the afternoon I paddled out to one of my favorite waves on my shortboard.
OMG, did I have fun or what?! I caught 6-7 perfect shoulder high long peelers before falling on a takeoff and landing on the wrong side and hurting the rib again.
Body mechanic, here I come again... hope you can do your miracle again!
Waves have been, are and will be glassy and it's pretty hard to be land lock.
Congrats to Kai Lenny for winning the SUP world title. The waves in Big Island for the last contest were quite average, but he deserved his title right from the start when he ruled everyone on a massive Sunset Beach day.
Originally I wanted to link the videos of that day, but SUP in big choppy waves looks just too bad to me with those huge boards bouncing all over the place.
So, I'll link this little video instead that shows SUP in conditions where it is definitely more fun than regular surfing: small, "shitty" waves (don't mean to offend anybody, that's just what I think) and because it shows the other Maui kids that did good (Bernd and Ridge).
BIG congrats to Jeremy Flores for winning the Pipe Masters. Winning the world's most prestigious surf contest (even though this year it should have been called Backdoor Masters) must have been a huge thing for the young Frenchman.
Here's his blog and the video that shows the barrels that gave him the win.