surfed out again

Surfing has been phenomenal. I just love big north swells, 'cause I get to surf some of my favorite breaks.
For the last few days I consistently had at least two sessions a day, it's getting hard to remember where I surfed when... In fact I won't even try!
I'm just going to post some photos from a very fun day (the 7th).

First three shots is Skyler Haywood. He was in the water with me in the early morning while this is late afternoon. I wonder if he just surfed all day...
Is this wave extremely rippable or what?








Spot the (young) impostor.






Let's go right now.


Duck dive that!











Well, surfing is a lot of fun, but it can be dangerous. Still way less dangerous than driving a car, but what you're about to see is part of the game too.
This shark attack happened on the other side of that jetty at Christmas.


Please no hate for the sharks. We're invading their territory and they're just trying to survive as they've been doing for millions of years.
If I was the guy, I would be thankful to the shark for letting go of the bite as soon as he realized I was not a fish. That was a really well behaved shark.

Our species instead, kills and continues to fuck up the environment's natural balance just because some marketing smart ass decided to make eating shark fin soup a status symbol.
For me, this is the shocking video, not the one above.



Just one more photo. All my ocean activities wouldn't be possible without my lovely wagon. When I bought it a few years ago, I thought about having the hood painted. The cheapest price I was asked was 400 bucks and I almost went for it...
What the hell was I thinking??!! That's the price of a new surfboard!!!
Plus I love the ghetto look... it's so Maui!

This is the winter 2010/2011 configuration: an 80l windsurf board (plus sails and everything else) and a 6.6 surfboard inside and a 7.4 SUP board on top (so short that it doesn't even interfere with the back door).
Add the waves and the result is my happiness.


Got more surfing material but that'll go on another post. See you out there!
PS. So happy that my prediction for a shitty winter was so wrong!