Sunday, January 30, 2011

epic surfing

I know, I used this title already... how cool is that?

How else should I call this post? Here's the photos I took today in chronological order (believe it or not).

Actually, this lovely photographer was the reason because I took my camera out after my first session.

The point.

The light offshore wind offered some barrel opportunities.

Mini sequence photo 1.

Photo 2. Same wave.

Back hand bottom turn.

Girl's shorts should be illegal. Mmm.. let me take that back. Shorts on SOME girls should be illegal.

Michael flies.

Ladies: click on the photo and drool over the abs.

French lady drops.

American lady cuts back.

Mean turn at the Lane.

This guy (which I was able to cut the body in half) was throwing the most amazing rotations off the lip.

My sessions report (did I just lose all the readers here?):

I had two intense sessions at Lanes (a session at Lanes with overhead waves is ALWAYS intense) and loved both. A lot of stuff happened:
- I did some big beautiful late drops thanks to the rocker of my Gianfranco's carbon stringered 6.6 (sooner or later, I'll talk about it)
- I did some big beautiful late drops wipeouts (sometimes even a beautiful rocker can't compensate for the lack of skill)
- a guy wanted to go for an impossible late drop right in front of me and bailed at the last moment letting his board go... I clearly gave up the duck dive and bailed too. We ended up getting seriously pounded (hit the reef on my back, but the wetsuit saved my skin) and my board got a big fin cut on the bottom. Better the board than my face!!
BTW, the board is fixed already. Thank god for UV reacting resin.
- a wave ripped off my wetsuit top... completely! If it wasn't for the attachment to the shorts string in the front, it would be now completely gone. What a great feeling to suddenly being undressed by mother nature!
- around 4ish, waves turned from light offshore heaven to strong onshore hell in the matter of 15 minutes. People in the know, timed their sessions just fine... :)

Tomorrow is an exciting day. The NW buoy is at 18 feet, 14 seconds from NNW at 6pm.
I have to work at two. My plan is to surf and/or sail before that. Which might require some driving. Fortunately I have no problem with that. Let's see how that goes.


(Ben) Jamin Jones said...

Your first picture got my attention right away. Very nice! How could I not then read the rest of the blog?

The sudden weather/wind change was amazing...

Anonymous said...

Do you ever talk to any of those girls whose butts you take photos of?

Anonymous said...

I don't understand why you don't like girls in shorts! Sometimes more is less.


Michael said...

I click to hear about the surf. I linger to see the girls. You've got just the right balance. Only concern is whether the girls (women) you (as in plural)? I sure hope so or why else would they stay svelte and wear those lovely bikinis...

Patrick said...

Grande Giampà! Le nostre 3 settimane a Maui sono volate ed è stato un piacere conoscerti! Forza Napoli! Patrick e Sandro
P.S.Come dice il saggio "Via la bottiglia via il genio!"