I posted the photos from yesterday in an album on facebook and here's what I wrote:
"Since I passed the 50's, sometimes I think about life like a limited amount of time left.
It might sound sad, but it's a great way to focus yourself on what's important for you.
And it might sound shallow, but surfing is what is important for me. And days like today feel like a missed opportunity. I would have been out there for sure. 5f 12s and a light breeze made for really fun conditions.
Tanner Hendrickson dominated the shoot.
I got 2 SUP sessions and found a better fins setup, so no complaining on my side. Just observations."
The order is chronological and this girl was dropping in some bombs.
Blog reader Cruser Putnam.
I'm a big fan of Tanner's surfing.
This one is Micah Nickens.
From here on, it's all Tanner.
The NW buoy doesn't show signs of the extra large NW swell yet (but it will during the day!), so I'm calling no waves from that in Maui today.
According to Pat Caldwell though, there should be a rise of size in the late afternoon, but in the 15s range. The real long period stuff should be rising Friday morning.
But Pauwela still reads a fun 4.7ft @ 11s from 331° (NNW). With the no wind, that'll make for super fun friendly size conditions and I'm calling for high crowd advisory. I might actually water shoot Middle from 7.30 to 8.30, if you care.
Just a quick note on a reading a Barbers:0.4ft @ 18s from 207° (SSW). That's the start of the long stretch of small south swells coming from down under. Nothing big as the last Sunday/Monday one, but worth to check the webcam (and the buoy) from now on.
Wind map shows the big and strong NW fetch that is stirring the waters for Friday/Saturday's extra large swell. That's as close as you want the head of a fetch to get to the islands without having the bad side effects of the rain and active wind. That happens a lot in winter time and that's why, even if I was given the magic wound, I wouldn't move them one inch from where they are. I would definitely move Kahoolawe out of the way, though. And Molokai too, just a bit more west, not much.
All the way down south there's a wide fetch that spreads from the Tasman Sea to SE of New Zealand.
They're having a really good summer down under. And right in the middle, that low I pointed out yesterday. I circled the small fetch pointed at us. Still weak, but it will intensify.
Now remember all those south fetches of the past few days that generated waves that should hit in the weekend? Well those waves will have to go through that low. And if they might get a boost to the west of it thanks to the wind revamping their size, they might also get a strong opposing wind to the east of it.
Forecasting the size of the combined swell it's something I won't even try to do.
MC2km map at noon shows a lovely lack of wind.
Before I close, I'd like to talk about one of the things I did to help the recovery from my rib injury.
It's called Muscle Activation Techniques and here's how MAT certified therapist Zach Perry explained it to me.
When you have an injury the brain tends to shut down the muscles around the injured area. It does so in order to protect the area. The problem is that often some of those muscles stay weak even after the injury is healed and that can cause trouble.
Every time you feel like a muscle is too tight (or every time you have a pain because of a tight muscle), he added, instead of stretching it, you should try to reinforce the antagonist muscles. In that way there would be a better balance and the original muscle wouldn't feel tight anymore and hopefully the related pain will be gone. A way to do that is with the MAT.
I met Zach at a BBQ and after just a quick chat, I immediately liked his energy. Despite his young age, my first impression was: humble, competent, trustworthy. So I went for a treatment.
Here's what he does. He tests the strength of your muscles by asking you to resist a pressure he's going to apply. The photo shows one of these tests. If he finds a weak muscle that he thinks needs to be reactivated, he stimulates the neural connection between the brain and the muscle by gently pushing the relevant spot on your body with his fingers. It's nothing like a massage, just a mild, localized pressure. After he's done that, he checks again and does it again or moves on to another test.
I had four treatments, and after each single one, here's what happened:
1) as I was leaving I thought:"there's not a chance in the world what he did is going to make a difference. That was just not enough pressure/work". I was mentally comparing it to a massage, but as I said, it's not.
2) the day after I felt significantly better. Skeptical as I am, the first time I thought that it was just a coincidence. But a significant improvement after each of the four treatments is not coincidence.
Unfortunately, a single treatment is not enough. The beneficial effects of a treatment are not long lasting, unless you do a few of them. From what I understand, the neural connection between the weak muscle and the brain needs to be refreshed a few times before it becomes reactivated.
One more note: he just moved to Maui and until he gets his practice properly started (hopefully this post will help), he will see you in the place he's renting. So don't expect a fancy office with a hot receptionist.
Pro kiter Jesse Richman is one of his "team riders" and he told me he received great benefit from his MAT treatments. A new banner is up and links to Zach's website http://www.setpointmat.com/.